{"id":37929,"date":"2020-02-28T13:29:45","date_gmt":"2020-02-28T18:29:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=37929"},"modified":"2021-07-20T13:29:53","modified_gmt":"2021-07-20T17:29:53","slug":"the-empire-state-strikes-back-a-roundup-of-new-york-cheesemakers","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/the-empire-state-strikes-back-a-roundup-of-new-york-cheesemakers\/","title":{"rendered":"The Empire (State) Strikes Back: A roundup of New York cheesemakers"},"content":{"rendered":"

Although Vermont is usually recognized as the leader among northeastern artisan cheesemakers, the great state of New York is running a close second. Home to countless acres of verdant pastureland and rolling hills, the Empire State has long been steeped in dairy farming tradition and can now boast a number of dedicated artisan and farmstead producers. Here we present a quartet of relative cheesemaking newcomers, all of which are family-owned and run. We also check in with three New York State stalwarts producing what have now become modern day classics.<\/p>\n

HUDSON VALLEY BEAUTIES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Cochran Farm<\/strong><\/a> is located in the sleepy town of St. Johnsville, where the husband and wife team of Patrick and Gwen Apfel dedicate themselves to producing ch\u00e8vres with the flavor and complexity of the raw milk goat cheeses of Patrick\u2019s native France. Using only goat\u2019s milk from a nearby Amish farm, which is pasteurized and left to develop flavor overnight, the Apfels carefully hand-ladle the curds to avoid any fissures that would detract from the dense, fudgy textures of their cheeses. Their flagship St. Johnsville is an earthy delight brimming with true farmhouse flavor in the traditional French style. And Gwen\u2019s signature creation, Oriskany, perfectly balances full barnyard flavors with a bright, citrusy finish. Mohawk Mist, a young fresh ch\u00e8vre, is the quintessential breakfast cheese; It\u2019s divine on warm toast topped with jam. The highly perishable nature of Cochran Farm\u2019s cheeses dictates only next-day shipping, which limits their availability to the Northeast region.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Cochran Farm St. Johnsville<\/p><\/div>\n

Industry veterans Shaleena and Willy Bridgham launched their company Four Fat Fowl<\/strong><\/a> in historic Stephentown after years of honing their skills (marketing and cheesemaking, respectively) with Hudson Valley pioneers Old Chatham Creamery and Coach Farms. Together with Willy\u2019s sister Josie Madison, who handles operations, they are growing their brand on a national level. Even with their recent increased national distribution, this hands-on trio continues to monitor every batch themselves for signs of peak ripeness. Milk purchased from a single source downstate allows for a continuity and quality typically reserved only for farmstead operations. Their award-winning St. Stephen is a round of creamy, buttery joy with a clean, rich finish and an extremely stable rind. Brand-new CamemBertha is St. Stephen\u2019s earthier, more robust sister. And Inagadda Ricotta, made from Jersey cow\u2019s milk, possesses a texture and richness not found in commercial varieties, and is redefining what ricotta is truly capable of.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

The Four Fat Fowl team<\/p><\/div>\n

AGED WHEELS FROM WESTERN NEW YORK<\/strong><\/p>\n

Sylvia and Jacob Stoltzfus of Deansboro are the driving force behind Jake\u2019s Gouda Cheese<\/strong><\/a>. They purchased equipment and traditional wooden curing boards from Holland specifically suited to making goudas and began turning out their own versions of those well-loved Dutch classics. Their Jake\u2019s Aged Gouda provides the requisite crunch and caramel overtones that one finds in the aged Dutch varietals, boosted by a sharpness typically associated with aged Italian cheeses and English cheddars. In addition to their Baby Gouda, Jake\u2019s offers a number of flavored goudas such as Sundried Tomato and Garlic, Jalape\u00f1o Blend, Nettle Blend, and a truly superior Smoked Gouda. (They also produce an outstanding sharp cheddar.) All of their cheeses are made from top-quality raw cow\u2019s milk that is supplied by the family dairy, now run by their son Merle.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Cheese racks at Jake’s Gouda Cheese<\/p><\/div>\n

Gary and Betty Burley of Perry, New York were farmers in the fluid milk trade when the cheese bug bit them. Gary states that their \u201ca-ha\u201d moment occurred when, \u201cWe first tasted Comt\u00e9, and that was it for us!\u201d They engaged a consultant from the Beaufortain region of France who taught them the art of French mountain-style cheesemaking, and East Hill Creamery<\/strong><\/a> was born. True to the grand French tradition, all of their cheeses are produced from raw cow\u2019s milk, and from a grass-fed herd to boot, which is overseen by the Burleys\u2019 children at the family farm just down the road from the dairy. East Hill\u2019s Alpine-style Silver Lake is based on a traditional Comt\u00e9 recipe, with a good bit more acidity than its European counterpart. It delivers just the right amount of satisfying crunch and a diverse bouquet of flavors, including nuts and cured meat. East Hill Creamery also offers Underpass and Underpass Reserve in the style of traditional Raclette, and their tangy and fruity Happy Accident is just that.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Mike of East Hill Creamery in their cheese caves<\/p><\/div>\n

THE VETERANS<\/strong><\/p>\n

Sprout Creek Farm<\/strong><\/a> is a working dairy and non-profit educational center located in Poughkeepsie. In addition to their excellent raw and pasteurized cheeses, they also offer numerous classes and seminars for children of all ages. Topics range from cheesemaking to the life cycle of chickens; those looking to dig a little deeper into agricultural life can sign up for week-long camps in spring or summer.<\/p>\n

5 Spoke Creamery<\/strong><\/a> in Goshen utilizes only raw milk from their closed herd to produce their line of aged cow\u2019s milk cheeses. Tumbleweed, their take on Salers, is subtle but flavorful with a distinct tang and creaminess. Firm and nutty Harvest Moon, inspired by Mimolette, is a guaranteed crowd-pleaser. They also produce a number of aged cheddars representative of the excellent value in today\u2019s domestic cheese marketplace.<\/p>\n

The cheeses of Nettle Meadow Farm<\/strong><\/a> have garnered much attention and numerous awards over the years, and rightfully so. Their trademark cow\u2019s and goat\u2019s milk Kunik has earned the dairy a reputation as a top contender in the domestic triple cream category. In addition to a number of other bloomy-rind cow\u2019s and goat\u2019s milk cheeses, Nettle Meadow has a standout line of fresh spreads, including ch\u00e8vres both plain and flavored, fromage blanc<\/em> and fromage frais<\/em>. They have also recently launched a line of washed-rind tommes bathed in a variety of local libations.<\/p>\n

Be on the lookout for these and other New York State cheeses as they continue to increase their presence in the American cheese marketplace.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Although Vermont is usually recognized as the leader among northeastern artisan cheesemakers, the great state of New York is running a close second.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":103,"featured_media":37860,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[10],"tags":[1296,1278,3794,2865,22319],"coauthors":[3951],"class_list":["post-37929","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog","tag-cheesemakers","tag-cheesemakers-upstate-new-york","tag-new-york","tag-new-york-cheese","tag-new-york-cheesemakers"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe Empire (State) Strikes Back: A roundup of New York cheesemakers - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Although Vermont is usually recognized as the leader among northeastern artisan cheesemakers, the great state of New York is running a close second.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/the-empire-state-strikes-back-a-roundup-of-new-york-cheesemakers\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Empire (State) Strikes Back: A roundup of New York cheesemakers\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Although Vermont is usually recognized as the leader among northeastern artisan cheesemakers, the great state of New York is running a close second.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/the-empire-state-strikes-back-a-roundup-of-new-york-cheesemakers\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2020-02-28T18:29:45+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2021-07-20T17:29:53+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/New-York-1.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1500\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1500\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Patrick Ambrosio\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Patrick Ambrosio\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"5 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/the-empire-state-strikes-back-a-roundup-of-new-york-cheesemakers\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/the-empire-state-strikes-back-a-roundup-of-new-york-cheesemakers\/\",\"name\":\"The Empire (State) Strikes Back: A roundup of New York cheesemakers - 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