{"id":40225,"date":"2021-06-14T08:00:42","date_gmt":"2021-06-14T12:00:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=40225"},"modified":"2021-06-16T09:58:00","modified_gmt":"2021-06-16T13:58:00","slug":"asturias-land-of-artisanal-cheeses","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/asturias-land-of-artisanal-cheeses\/","title":{"rendered":"Asturias: Land of Artisanal Cheeses"},"content":{"rendered":"

B<\/span>reathe deeply and look around; aren\u2019t we lucky to have this office!\u201d says artisan cheesemaker Jos\u00e9 Luis Alonso. Surrounded by lusciously green pastures, glacial lakes, and imposing limestone peaks, his tiny hut, located in the majestic Picos de Europa, feels like the right place to get away from it all. Created in 1918, Picos\u2014for short\u2014is Spain\u2019s first National Park, and the area is the birthplace of two of Asturias\u2019s most renowned cheeses: Gamon\u00e9u<\/a> and Cabrales<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Over forty different artisanal cheeses\u2014four under Protected Designation of Origin (PDO)\u2014are produced in Asturias, an impressive number considering the area is smaller than Connecticut. Part of  \u201cGreen Spain,\u201d the region\u2019s soul is shrouded in Celtic mystique, and the landscape is as diverse as its cheeses: from coastal villages perched over the roaring Cantabrian Sea to remote mountain communities hidden within ancient woodlands. A third of its territory is environmentally protected.<\/p>\n

Once, industrialization brought prosperity to the region. Today only vestiges of the former industrial past remain, and its remaining population is the oldest in the country. The young have been forced to look for job opportunities elsewhere, although the strong ties to the countryside have never faded away completely.<\/p>\n

Cheesemaking in Asturias is an aging profession too. Nevertheless, a generation of young cheesemakers is bringing new life to the industry, incorporating modern approaches to the creation of ancestral cheeses. A few started from scratch, while for many others the art of cheesemaking is interwoven with their childhood memories. What many of these young cheesemakers have in common is the will to preserve their ties to the land and protect that heritage while building a way of life for themselves in the process.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Xel D\u00edaz and Marta Fern\u00e1ndez with their Afuega’l Pitu cheeses<\/p><\/div>\n

MOUNTAIN PASTURES<\/span><\/h2>\n

Born and bred in eastern Asturias, Alonso cut his cheesemaking teeth with his grandparents. At his creamery, Uberd\u00f3n<\/a>, he makes Gamon\u00e9u del Puertu<\/a>, an ancient cheese with a wild personality and an uncertain future, since there are only four artisan makers of the cheese left and half are nearing retirement age. Gamon\u00e9u is a ripe, crumbly, high fat, lightly smoked cheese made from a blend of unpasteurized cow\u2019s, sheep\u2019s, and goat\u2019s milk\u2014or mixtures of two of these three types of milk\u2014with distinctive greenish-blue penicillium close to the edges. There are two types, both with PDO status: Gamon\u00e9u del Valle<\/a>, made in the valley year-round, and the scarcer Gamon\u00e9u del Puertu<\/a>, made in the high common pastures of Picos, where livestock roams freely during the warmer months.<\/p>\n

Unsurprisingly, Alonso doesn\u2019t have time to sit down for an interview; we talk as he labors. \u201cI love my job, but I won\u2019t lie, it\u2019s hard work,\u201d he says. To make his award-winning cheese, he tends 12 cows, 90 goats, and 260 sheep. Come the warmer weather, he moves\u2014together with his animals\u2014to the high mountain pastures, where he stays in his stone hut and makes cheese every day. \u201cThe challenge is to preserve this cheese and this tradition. I love it, and I don\u2019t want it to disappear.”<\/p>\n

\"\"

Cheesemaker Jos\u00e9 Luis Alonso’s mountain hut<\/p><\/div>\n

For centuries, these landscapes have been shaped by transhumance, a form of mobile livestock farming based on seasonal migrations exemplified by shepherds like Alonso and his free-roaming animals. Humble huts like his are dotted around the majadas, ancient clear spaces in the mountains. An added struggle for shepherds these days is the increasing presence of wolves in the area. It\u2019s estimated that there were only a few hundred wolves in Spain in the 1960s, whereas now it is believed there are near 2,000, with over 90 percent of the population concentrated in the north. \u201cI\u2019m afraid our only chance to preserve this cheese is learning to co-exist with the wolves,\u201d says Alonso. Recently, Spain\u2019s government introduced a ban on hunting wolves in the rural north, where controlled hunting had still been allowed, and the move has provoked a huge debate.<\/p>\n

SECRET CAVES<\/span><\/h2>\n

Some old traditions have been replaced by mechanical means; others, like the aging process, have been kept unaltered for centuries. Both Cabrales and Gamon\u00e9u cheeses are aged in the hundreds of natural limestone caves hidden in the area. The climate conditions inside the caves, including high humidity and cool temperatures, provide the proper environment for the cheeses to ripen while facilitating the appearance of the distinctive bluish-green mold that naturally occurs in both varieties.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Aging wheels of Arangas cheese<\/p><\/div>\n

Since most caves are located in difficult-to-access areas, cheesemakers often have no other option but to carry their cumbersome wheels of cheese up to the caves on foot, sometimes helped by a horse, even if that means several trips ascending the rugged mountains on circuitous paths. The caves are located at different elevations and the wheels are left to ripen for different periods of time, which influences the final taste. Regular visits to turn, flip, and clean the cheeses are part of the demanding process required to produce them.<\/p>\n

Sisters Ana and Elena Sober\u00f3n, both in their 20s, make Cabrales, the region\u2019s most well-known cheese and the first to obtain a European PDO in 1981. A pungent, blue-veined cheese with a strong aroma and a creamy, firm texture, it can be made solely from unpasteurized cow\u2019s milk or blended with sheep\u2019s and goat\u2019s milk. Formerly, Cabrales cheese was wrapped in sycamore leaves, but now it is sold in aluminum foil. At their creamery, also called Sober\u00f3n<\/a>, Elena is the master cheese maker, while Ana tends the sisters\u2019 34 cows. \u201cUntil last year we also had sheep, but we had to sell them because of the wolves,\u201d says Ana ruefully. The winding road that leads to their tiny hamlet of Arangas offers one striking view after another, spectacular limestone cliffs cut by narrow gorges and crystal-clear waters at the bottom.<\/p>\n

The sisters have received awards for their sustainability credentials and now, on top of producing Cabrales cheese, are determined to revive an ultra-local cheese traditionally named Arangas, after their village. \u201cI decided to start making cheese because it was a wonderful childhood memory I had, and I turned that memory into my way of earning a living, and above all, a way of life,\u201d says Elena.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Gamon\u00e9u cheese aging in limestone caves.<\/p><\/div>\n

Unlike Cabrales cheese, it\u2019s virtually unknown outside their county, but their Arangas<\/a> cheese has been a success. They started to produce it two years ago and are the only ones making it. This unique cheese is smoked before being taken to the caves to ripen, like Gamon\u00e9u. \u201cWe offer it as a whole wheel only, and it\u2019s selling very well despite the price tag (it costs 45\u20ac\/kg).\u201d [about $27\/lb.]<\/p>\n

CENTRAL VALLEYS<\/span><\/h2>\n

Marta Fern\u00e1ndez and Xel D\u00edaz are the couple behind Ca Sanchu<\/a>, a family-run creamery that produces PDO Afuega\u2019l Pitu<\/a> cheese. \u201cMy mother learned to make this cheese at age 15. When she married, she came back to it again, and she used togo to the Sunday market of Grau to sell them, as we do now,\u201d explains Marta.<\/p>\n

Made from cow\u2019s milk, this versatile full-fat cheese is one of the oldest and more familiar in Asturias. Deeply ingrained in the local food culture, Afuega\u2019l Pitu is native to the central-western valleys and mountains of the region, where the landscape conveys a serene beauty. Until three decades ago the cheese was mostly produced for self-consumption. There are two main varieties, Atronc\u00e1u, whose peculiar shape resembles an inverted flowerpot, and Trapu, which is ball-like and bundled up in a cloth tied at the top.<\/p>\n

Their awareness about food miles means that Fern\u00e1ndez and D\u00edaz are just interested in selling their cheeses locally. In their tiny creamery, ladles are used to transfer the curds to perforated molds, the ancestral way. The flavor is slightly sharp, and the texture is smooth. There are white and red types, and the red cheese\u2014which includes Spanish paprika\u2014has a stronger, piquant flavor. \u201cThe challenge for Afuega\u2019l Pitu in general is to get more people to appreciate it even at the local level, increase the distribution channels, and protect it,\u201d says Marta, who concedes that reaching a wider clientele and exporting, even if they aren\u2019t interested in the latter, are key to secure this variety\u2019s survival.<\/p>\n

BEECH AND OAKFORESTS<\/span><\/h2>\n

Indigenous to the area of Asturias that includes Redes Natural Park, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, PDO Cas\u00edn cheese is made from unpasteurized cow\u2019s milk. It\u2019s often considered one of Europe\u2019s oldest documented cheeses; there are written accounts of it dating back to the 14th century.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Stamping Casin cheese<\/p><\/div>\n

After Francisco Cueria lost his job asa draftsman during the 2009 recession, he began making Cas\u00edn, encouraged by his family and mentored by his late aunt Mar\u00eda Luisa Cueria. La Corte, his creamery, has a large sliding glass door offering a view of the Tanes reservoir and the surrounding mountains. \u201cWhat makes Cas\u00edn cheese unique is the kneading during the production process,\u201d Cueria says. Each producer can knead the curds as many times as desired to achieve their preferred texture; the more times it\u2019s kneaded, the smoother the cheese will be, and the stronger the flavor.<\/p>\n

From west to east, by the sea or up in the mountains, convivial fairs honoring local cheeses are celebrated year-round, particularly during the warmer months. Furthermore, the capital city of Oviedo will host the 2021 World Cheese Awards, as part of the Asturias Para\u00edso Natural International Cheese Festival<\/a> in early November. Asturias\u2019s local cheeses are often unavailable anywhere except in the counties where they are made, providing the best excuse to visit and also to enjoy the region\u2019s striking landscapes.<\/p>\n

\n

If You Go…<\/h1>\n

EAT:<\/span><\/h3>\n

Monte<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Creativity, respect, and sustainability are key aspects of chef Xune Andrade\u2019s cooking. His Asturian cheesecake is a hit.<\/p>\n

San Feliz, 33638<\/em><\/p>\n

La Barraca<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Asturias is the only location in the world where cider is poured from high above, a ritual that enhances the beverage\u2019s taste. The award-winning Ov\u00edn sisters have mastered the art, and they run this traditional sidrer\u00eda (cider house).<\/p>\n

La Barraca, 16<\/em><\/p>\n

33520. Nava<\/em><\/p>\n

Sidrer\u00eda Lena<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Cider in Asturias is a religion, and sidrer\u00edas are where life happens. Michelin-starred chef Jaime Uz\u2019s newest venture offers a modern take on the concept.<\/p>\n

Cervantes, 2. Villaviciosa<\/em><\/p>\n

Casa Camacho<\/strong><\/p>\n

Teresa Camacho belongs to the \u201cGuisanderas de Asturias\u201d club, an association that enhances the work of women chefs. Hers is a simple menu that focuses on traditional Asturian fare.<\/p>\n

Anieves, 28, 33919<\/em><\/p>\n

Oviedo<\/em><\/p>\n

Casa Pedro <\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

The menu showcases chef Cristian\u2019s love of Asturian cheeses: his mille feulle foie with Cabrales and his Gamon\u00e9u croquetas are must-tries.<\/p>\n

San Juan de Parres, 37<\/em><\/p>\n

Parres, 33550, Cangas de On\u00eds<\/em><\/p>\n

Bar Blanco<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Located in the only wine-producing area of Asturias, this humble restaurant encapsulates the charm of another time and the menu always includes cheese-centric dishes.<\/p>\n

Mayor 11,<\/em><\/p>\n

33800 Cangas del Narcea<\/em><\/p>\n

STAY:<\/span><\/h3>\n

Posada del Valle<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Located at the foot of the Picos de Europa mountains, where some of Asturias\u2019 better-known cheeses are made, this family run hotel takes sustainability very seriously and offers food workshops.<\/p>\n

Collia, 33549<\/em><\/p>\n

Arriondas<\/em><\/p>\n

Hotel Reciegos<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Located in Cas\u00edn cheese country, in a setting of spectacular natural beauty, this 3-star rural hotel was founded by Marigel \u00c1lvarez, the woman who revived the cheese and first made it commercially available. The hotel sits next to her creamery, which is open to visitors.<\/p>\n

Reciegos, El Llano, 18, 33990<\/em><\/p>\n

Campo de Caso, Asturias<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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