{"id":40670,"date":"2021-10-18T08:00:41","date_gmt":"2021-10-18T12:00:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=40670"},"modified":"2023-03-17T16:58:53","modified_gmt":"2023-03-17T20:58:53","slug":"chefs-dish-the-queso-question","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/chefs-dish-the-queso-question\/","title":{"rendered":"Chef’s Dish: The Queso Question"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"\"<\/a>
Chef Juan Garcia of Goat Mafia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Photographed by Amanda Lopez<\/em><\/h6>\n\n\n\n

So-Cal Birrieros and Taqueros Buck Mexican Tradition<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

T<\/span>he regional Mexican stew birria is having a well-deserved moment, but it comes with some controversy. At its core, birria is meat simmered in warm spices, various chiles, and canned tomatoes, but opinions on what is right, good, and traditional vary wildly depending on whether the dish comes from Jalisco or Tijuana\u2014two regions with strong birria identities. Some insist \u201creal\u201d birria is made with goat, others say it should be made with beef (and an even smaller percentage say lamb). But most of us grew up eating birria with the same simple setup: a plate of the braised meat topped with a sprinkling of chopped raw onion and cilantro, accompanied by warm tortillas and a Styrofoam cup of consom\u00e9, the fatty red broth the meat was simmered in. Today, there\u2019s a whole new birria world out there thanks to innovative birrieros and taqueros in southern California, who are upsetting traditionalists by adding copious amounts of cheese to extra-indulgent birria creations that spread like wildfire across social media. No dish exemplifies this newfound obsession quite like quesa birria tacos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Any taco can transform into a quesataco with the addition of cheese, but quesabirria tacos\u2014in all their crusty, gooey, and meaty glory\u2014are commonly made by dunking the tortilla in consom\u00e9 and then griddling it on both sides before sprinkling it with cheese, topping it with birria, chopped onions, and cilantro, and folding it into its taco destiny. In another iteration, sometimes referred to as a taco vampiro de birria, the cheese is griddled before the tortilla is bonded on top and the birria is added. Another variation that some enterprising taqueros marketas \u201cketo\u201d has no tortilla at all. Instead, griddled cheese\u2014brown on one side, melty on the other\u2014replaces the sacred carb entirely. The most-used cheese in all these iterations is Monterey Jack, and it\u2019s the one Teddy Vasquez swears by.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Teddy Vasquez began his business by selling tacos out of his car. Now he has multiple Teddy\u2019s Red Tacos locations across Los Angeles<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Vasquez has had a meteoric rise to food fame in Los Angeles as the creator of the chain Teddy\u2019s Red Tacos, a burgeoning birria empire centralized in southeast L.A., but with outposts as far flung asVenice Beach. His tacos are made with birria de res, the Tijuana-style beef variation of the Mexican stew. Teddy\u2019sRed Tacos offers individual vampiro tacos and quesabirria tacos, but by far the chain\u2019s most popular offering is the deluxe plate, a plethora of birria-heavy Tijuana-style snacks that include a quesadilla oozing with beef and Monterey Jack, and a mulita\u2014Monterey Jack and Vasquez\u2019s juicy, marinated-overnight birria encased between two lightly griddled tortillas.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Teddy Vasquez of Teddy\u2019s Red Tacos<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

\u201cOne of the things I was faced with early on is that people would say, \u2018Hey, I\u2019m used to eating birria in a bowl with tortillas on the side,\u2019\u201d Vasquez says. \u201cBut that\u2019s old school; the older generation don\u2019t want cheese anywhere near their birria. The younger generation loves cheese with their birria. They\u2019ll add cheese to literally anything.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vasquez says that when he was starting out, he experimented with different cheeses, and went with Monterey Jack because of how creamy the cheese gets when it melts and how crispy it gets on the griddle. But not everyone agrees that Monterey Jack, an American original first made by Mexican Franciscan Friars in the 1700s in Monterey, California, is birria\u2019s best friend.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chef Juan Garcia has strong opinions about birria. His is unapologetically #TeamGoat. In fact, he\u2019s known for the tagline, \u201cSi no es chivo, no es birria.\u201d The fourth-generation birriero is also anti-Monterey Jack. Garcia says he understands why so many taqueros use it\u2014it\u2019s melty, creamy, and affordable\u2014but notes that it can also be gloopy, and it has a slight tang at the end that detracts from the birria, which he feels strongly should be the star of the show.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Garcia, who was born in Jalisco, the original home of birria, is the co-founder of Compton California\u2019s Goat Mafia<\/a>, part pop-up, part catering business that specializes in traditional birria and modern Mexican cooking. Garcia\u2019s birria recipe is more than 100 years old, created by his grandfather and passed down to generations of Garcia men on both sides of the border. The secret now lies with Garcia, who is tightlipped on the specifics, but says ginger, chocolate, and citrus make his family\u2019s version sing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 2020, Bon App\u00e9tit<\/em> named Goat Mafia\u2019s birria taco as one of the best in the country, but to locals in the know, the company created a historical dish nearly a decade earlier. Garcia can\u2019t prove it, but he thinks he was the first birriero in Los Angeles to add cheese to birria. In 2011, before Garcia went to culinary school, Goat Mafia\u2019s menu included a \u201cChivadilla,\u201d a mulita made with birria, Oaxaca cheese, and a smear of goat cheese, all drizzled with crema.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe got a lot of pushback on the Chivadilla,\u201d Garcia says. \u201cBack then, the only people who would try it were foodies or open-minded younger people. The old school people wouldn\u2019t even look at it because it wasn\u2019t traditional, which was funny because our birria is<\/em> really traditional. At the time, my thinking was Chivadilla that I wanted us to stand out by using goat products in different forms. I wanted to create a new dish that presented birria to the world in a different way.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Goat Mafia still has the Chivadilla on the menu. The current iteration is justas beloved as the original, but it\u2019s a far cry from it. \u201cIt\u2019s kind of a dessert-style quesadilla,\u201d Garcia says. The goat cheese remains, but the birria has been replaced by cooked beets, and the mulita is topped with agave and jocoque (a fermented dairy product, sort of a sour cream\/buttermilk hybrid) and a sprinkling of pepitas and dill. \u201cIt\u2019s not for everybody,\u201d he says. \u201cBut it sells out every time we make it.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n

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Garcia\u2019s birria recipe originated in Jalisco and has been passed down through his family for generations. Today, Angelenos flock to try the chef\u2019s creations at pop-ups around the city.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Birrieros, taqueros, and street vendors of all kinds are the lifeblood of Los Angeles, and they are finally getting the appreciation they deserve. In large part, this is thanks to L.A. Taco<\/a>. More than a decade ago, this food and culture outlet launched Taco Madness, an annual tournament-style bracket competition that pits the city\u2019s best tacos against each other. It\u2019s kind of like the World Cup of tacos, and it has the power to turn relatively unknown taqueros into well-known entities with bustling businesses. Broadly, L.A. Taco writes about taqueros with the respect, care, and concern once only reserved for James Beard Award-winning chefs, and indeed some of these taqueros become James Beard Award winners. Tacos y Que<\/a> made its food media debut in the outlet in March 2021, and just a few months later the taco truck\u2019s co-founder, Bryant Siono, announced a brick-and-mortar location in Whittier, California.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When the pandemic hit, Siono, Fabian Chavez, and Joe Mendez\u2014all musical directors and musicians working with some of the industry\u2019s biggest names\u2014found themselves with a lot of time on their hands as show after show got canceled. One day over some carne asada, they decided to do a pop-up\u2014and the rest is history.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Siono, who was the musical director for Jennifer Lopez in his pre-taquero life, said the goal of Tacos y Que was to pushboundaries without being \u201csuper bougie.\u201dIn L.A.\u2019s saturated taco market, he argues it\u2019s actually hard to find tasty and inventive Mexican food that veers off the beaten path. This is part of the reason Tacos y Que skews the birria trend entirely.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tacos y Que is also an outlier for choosing Sonoran-style flour tortillas instead of corn, and every taco has a layer of crispy cheese on the tortilla, whether it\u2019s filled with potatoes and Soyrizo, chicken tinga, or bulgogi\u2014a throwback to L.A.\u2019s Korean taco craze. Most notable, however, is Taco y Que\u2019s keto burrito. Siono once watched a customer pick Taco y Que\u2019s juicy carne asada out of his taco using a fork. Offended, Siono told the man that the flour tortilla was the best part.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cHe explained he was on keto, and I was like, \u2018Give me a second,\u2019\u201d Siono laughs. \u201cI took it as a challenge. I went to the griddle and threw some Monterey Jack cheese in a big circle and then I threw some carne asada inside and rolled it up, letting it get all toasty. That was the creation of the keto burrito; it was totally on the fly.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The sort-of-creamy, sort-of-tangy, onion-heavy purple cabbage slaw that tops it is the perfect bright accompaniment to the ultra cheesy burrito that somehow doesn\u2019t feel heavy and greasy. It\u2019s a dish that both borrows from trends and traditions, and yet manages to be a unique and distinct Los Angeles creation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cTacos are life, period,\u201d Siono says.\u201cThey\u2019re dear to everyone\u2019s heart. I don\u2019t care if you\u2019re not Mexican or not from L.A. Everybody loves tacos, and who doesn\u2019t love cheese?\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n

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Goat Mafia’s Chivadilla<\/h2>\n
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Chef Juan Garcia calls this dish "kind of a dessert quesadilla." Jocoque is a fermented dairy product; if you can't find it, crema Mexicana works just as well. <\/em><\/span><\/div>\n
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Servings <\/span>4<\/span><\/div><\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n

Ingredients
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  • 2<\/span> large beets<\/span><\/li>
  • 4<\/span> ounces<\/span> fresh goat cheese<\/span> local if possible, room temperature<\/span><\/li>
  • \u00bd<\/span> cup<\/span> pepitas<\/span><\/li>
  • 8 to<\/span> p-quality corn tortillas<\/span> preferably homemade<\/span><\/li>
  • Jocoque or crema Mexicana<\/span><\/li>
  • Agave syrup<\/span><\/li>
  • Small bunch of dill<\/span><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div>\n

    Instructions
    <\/div> <\/h3>
    • \u25baPreheat the oven to 450\u00b0F.<\/div><\/li>
    • \u25baWrap beets individually in foil and place directly on rack in oven center. Roast for 30-45 minutes or until you can pierce beets easily with a fork. Allow to cool. Peel beets and cut into small dice.<\/div><\/li>
    • \u25baUsing an electric stand or hand-held mixer, whip goat cheese until fluffy.<\/div><\/li>
    • \u25baIn a food processor, pulse pepitas until they are broken into pieces, being careful not to turn into powder.<\/div><\/li>
    • \u25baIn a dry skillet or on a griddle, warm tortillas and set aside, covered with a kitchen towel. Spread one warm tortilla with a thick layer of goat cheese, top with a layer of diced beets and salt lightly. Place a second tortilla on top. Repeat with remaining tortillas.<\/div><\/li>
    • \u25baHeat a comal (Mexican griddle) or heavy skillet (preferably cast iron) over medium-high heat and heat filled tortillas on both sides until hot and the cheese has just begun to ooze. Cut tortilla in half and place on a serving plate. Drizzle with jocoque or crema and agave syrup, sprinkle with pepitas, and garnish with sprigs of dill.<\/div><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div>\n
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       <\/h6>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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