{"id":41225,"date":"2022-01-27T09:54:59","date_gmt":"2022-01-27T14:54:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=41225"},"modified":"2022-02-28T16:19:08","modified_gmt":"2022-02-28T21:19:08","slug":"cheese-styles-french-goat","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheese-styles-french-goat\/","title":{"rendered":"Cheese Styles: French Goat"},"content":{"rendered":"

Photographed by Molly McDonough<\/em><\/p>\n

While giant cow\u2019s milk wheels have taken center stage throughout history as the Savoie region\u2019s most iconic cheeses, goat\u2019s milk cheese has always been there, too, ducking the spotlight. Now, Savoyard goat cheese is coming into its own. A growing number of creative producers are turning out the firm and flavor-rich cheeses once only enjoyed on the farmstead.<\/p>\n

Traditionally, dairy farms in the Savoie have delivered their cow\u2019s milk to processors, or fruiti\u00e8res, to be transformed into cheese: the Beaufort, Reblochon, Abondance, and others for which the region is known. But each household would also have a little herd of goats, whose milk and meat helped feed the family.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe goats maintained the pasture, the space, and the environment,\u201d remembers Dominique Joulot, one of the owners of the cooperative Ch\u00e8vrerie Ferme des Cabrettes in Sallanches. \u201cPlus they\u2019d fatten up, we\u2019d make a bit of cheese to eat, and then they\u2019d  end up at the butcher; voil\u00e0.\u201d<\/p>\n

France\u2019s most famous goat cheeses tend to be lactic acid\u2013coagulated types, such as B\u00fbcheron and crottin, sold fresh or lightly aged with bloomy rinds. The slow coagulation process, which relies on the action of bacteria converting lactose into lactic acid, creates a weak-structured curd that\u2019s left to drain without pressing. This results in the white, delicately textured cheese most familiar to US consumers as ch\u00e8vre.<\/p>\n

But mountain environments yield mountain cheeses: Harder and firmer, they can age for longer in a place where dramatic seasonal changes necessitate preservation. In Savoie, goat\u2019s milk cheeses have instead been produced like most cow\u2019s milk cheeses: coagulated using rennet to form a denser curd, then pressed and aged. It\u2019s hard not to compare these goat\u2019s milk cheeses to their cow\u2019s milk counterparts. Goat\u2019s milk Chevrotin is a flattened disc with a smooth, lightly pink and dusty white surface, like a smaller cow\u2019s milk Reblochon. And it\u2019s produced in almost the same way: rennet coagulated, pressed, washed daily for a week in a special brine, then sent to an affineur for further cave aging.<\/p>\n

But Joulot insists that Chevrotin, withna two-hundred-year history and its own Appellation d\u2019Origine Contr\u00f4l\u00e9e (AOC), can\u2019t be considered simply a goat\u2019s milk copy of Reblochon. The difference, he says, is in the milk. \u201cGoat\u2019s milk is rich in minerals and less fatty; it\u2019s more perfumed. It\u2019s more delicate because the goats eat only the top of the plant, which is the most tender. And that\u2019s reflected in the milk, in the cheese.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

La Ferme du Petit Mont Raclette de Ch\u00e8vre<\/p><\/div>\n

Yet at 100 tons per year, production of Chevrotin remains small compared to the 15,000 tons of Reblochon made annually in Savoie. It\u2019s evidence of how recently these cheeses have been commercialized and how small the industry still is.<\/p>\n

In Savoie the cow\u2019s milk industry has long benefited from strong organization along the supply chain: Milk from small farms was pooled at the fruiti\u00e8re, transformed into cheeses, and collectively commercialized. Goat\u2019s milk, by contrast, rested in individual households until fairly recently, when entrepreneurs such as Ferme des Cabrettes co-founder Denis Ballet-Baz realized that there might be an untapped market to exploit. He stopped raising cows altogether in 1986, bought his parents\u2019 farm, and moved in to expand his small herd of ch\u00e8vres. Since then goat\u2019s milk cheeses, with their lower fat content and higher mineral content, have been steadily growing in popularity.<\/p>\n

Much like in the United States, where goat cheese barely existed commercially until the 1970s, when a handful of pioneering back-to-the-landers started keeping goats, goat\u2019s milk cheesemaking in Savoie has appealed to a new generation of farmers.<\/p>\n

When Rebecca and Jean-Yves Zuccarelli left their day jobs in Paris and Normandy 20 years ago to found a ch\u00e8vrerie in Bellevaux, starting a ch\u00e8vrerie was nearly unheard of. If you had a dairy farm in the region, you kept cows. \u201cPeople looked at us like we were crazy,\u201d Rebecca remembers. But as urban transplants and inexperienced farmers, they felt goats had more appeal than cows. \u201cGoats are less intimidating,\u201d she says. \u201cThey\u2019re smaller, easier to manage, and friendly.\u201d<\/p>\n

As the popularity of goat cheese grows, her ch\u00e8vrerie doesn\u2019t seem as crazy. She welcomes groups of tourists and students  into her farm and home, selling local products alongside her cheeses in an onsite shop.<\/p>\n

Promotion is especially important in a smaller industry where farmers tend to be better at cheesemaking than they are at selling their cheese and where, unlike the well-organized cow\u2019s milk producers, the marketing infrastructure is not yet in place. \u201cWe\u2019re farmers first of all. We don\u2019t focus on communication as much,\u201d echoes Cathy Berthet, owner of Ch\u00e8vrerie des Daines in Frangy. \u201cEach of us produces milk and makes cheese,\u201d she says, but often for busy farmers, finding the bandwidth to tell the story of their products doesn\u2019t come easily.<\/p>\n

Berthet\u2019s goat\u2019s milk has an especially valuable story: It comes from a rare breed of goat that was nearly extinct when she first started producing cheese almost 20 years ago. The Ch\u00e8vre de Savoie goat is a non-standardized version of the French Alpine; while Alpine goats were bred to have several uniform color schemes, these rarer types are gorgeously varied, with diverse splotches of white and beige, black and brown.<\/p>\n

In France the biodiversity of breeds is considered integral to national heritage, and interest in species preservation has been growing steadily since the 1990s.<\/p>\n

Although livestock breeds have been adapting to their environments around the world for 12,000 years, today they\u2019re dying out at alarming rates: At least one breed disappears per month, according to the United Nations, and 30 percent of all breeds are endangered, according to some estimates. This loss of biodiversity weakens the genetic pool globally, and the ripple effects, such as weakened disease resistance among livestock, threaten local ecosystems.<\/p>\n

As the founder of the association to safeguard the breed and the genetic biodiversity it represents, Berthet has been working to bring back the Ch\u00e8vre de Savoie since 2001, increasing the animal population from 326 to over 1,000. The biggest obstacle is in convincing other farmers to work with the breed; with a lack of standardization\u2014and the fact that the Ministry of Agriculture doesn\u2019t officially recognize these goats yet\u2014there\u2019s a dearth of data and statistics about the Ch\u00e8vre de Savoie in terms of the quantity and quality of its milk.<\/p>\n

The response from consumers, appreciative of innovation and the health benefits of goat\u2019s milk, has been positive. Gourmands looking for a lighter spin on heavy cheese-centric Savoyard recipes are also in luck: \u201cWe don\u2019t call it tartiflette, though,\u201d says Dominique Joulot with a cunning smile, referring to the traditional ham-and-potatoes dish made with melted Reblochon. Instead, he says, in the Chevrotin version: \u201cWe call it tarti-ch\u00e8vre.\u201d<\/p>\n

And so somewhere between tradition and innovation, the goat\u2019s milk cheeses of Savoie continue to find their place at home and in the market, forging a newfangled path like a curious ch\u00e8vre on the rocky slopes of a mountain. <\/p>\n

Stateside Suggestions<\/h3>\n

Swiss-born cheesemaker Fritz Kaiser is known for having created the first Canadian raclette-style cheese called Goat Raclette,<\/strong> now produced in several varieties. Milky notes and a savory finish characterize this goat\u2019s milk version, with aromas of wet grass in the background.<\/p>\n

Cheesemaker Lori Babcock of Tieton Farm & Creamery in Washington spent a few years living in the Haute-Savoie, where she fell in love with the region\u2019s cheeses. Her cave-aged, washed-rind Rheba<\/strong> is produced in Chevrotin style with an added dose of sheep\u2019s milk to boost its creaminess factor. Starting out mild, the cheese becomes progressively stinkier and oozier with age.<\/p>\n

Tasting Notes<\/h3>\n

Chevrotin AOP<\/strong><\/a>
\nFerme des Cabrettes<\/strong>
\nSallanches, Haute-Savoie, France<\/em>
\nA fondant paste that melts in the mouth with a sweet, complex, and rounded flavor, Chevrotin is eminently likable. Acidity is low and the buildup of goaty pungency is subtle enough to satisfy washed-rind diehards and skeptics alike.<\/p>\n

Les Ch\u00e8vr\u2019ap\u00e9ros<\/strong><\/a>
\nCh\u00e8vrerie des Daines<\/strong>
\nHaute-Savoie, Frangy, France<\/em>
\nThese tiny medallions are fresh yet firm and crumbly, and like other lactic acid\u2013coagulated cheeses, they boldly express their goat\u2019s milk flavor up front. Perfect for ap\u00e9ro time served alongside a dry, fruity Cr\u00e9py white wine from the Savoie.<\/p>\n

Persill\u00e9 d\u2019H\u00e9ry<\/strong><\/a>
\nLa Ch\u00e8vrerie des Praz<\/strong>
\nH\u00e9ry-sur-Ugine, Savoie, France<\/em>
\nThe aged blue is an original creation of the ch\u00e8vrerie. Bold blue aromas exude from a chalky, veined paste surrounded by a rustic natural rind. Initial pungency melts into a rounded butteriness before an acidic tang hits the sides of the tongue.<\/p>\n

Tomme de Ch\u00e8vre de Savoie<\/strong><\/a>
\nLa Ferme du Petit Mont<\/strong>
\nBellevaux, Haute-Savoie, France<\/em>
\nWith a grey furry rind encasing a firm and smooth cream-colored paste, this cheese looks and smells like a wild animal. It\u2019s sweet at first, and then imparts a tangy and tongue-numbing sensation that fades into gentle milkiness. There are background aromas of peach and tropical fruits, reminiscent of white gummy bears.<\/p>\n

Raclette de Ch\u00e8vre<\/strong><\/a>
\nLa Ferme du Petit Mont<\/strong>
\nBellevaux, Haute-Savoie, France<\/em>
\nThis perfect-for-melting cheese is decidedly less stinky than its cow\u2019s milk cousin. The flavor is buttery and mild with a subtle meaty savoriness, hints of dark cocoa and creamsicle, and a goaty finish.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Photographed by Molly McDonough While giant cow\u2019s milk wheels have taken center stage throughout history as the Savoie region\u2019s most iconic cheeses, goat\u2019s milk cheese has always been there, too, ducking the spotlight. Now, Savoyard goat cheese is coming into its own. A growing number of creative producers are turning out the firm and flavor-rich […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":41228,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[15,26354],"tags":[2087,27629,178,855,27908,7220,638,27909],"coauthors":[290],"class_list":["post-41225","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cheese-iq","category-stories","tag-cheese","tag-cheese-styles","tag-cheesemaking","tag-chevre","tag-chevrotin-aop","tag-french-goat","tag-goat-cheese","tag-rheba"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCheese Styles: French Goat - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheese-styles-french-goat\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Cheese Styles: French Goat\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Photographed by Molly McDonough While giant cow\u2019s milk wheels have taken center stage throughout history as the Savoie region\u2019s most iconic cheeses, goat\u2019s milk cheese has always been there, too, ducking the spotlight. 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