{"id":41239,"date":"2022-01-27T17:15:08","date_gmt":"2022-01-27T22:15:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=41239"},"modified":"2023-01-18T14:03:58","modified_gmt":"2023-01-18T19:03:58","slug":"cheese-styles-traditional-swiss","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheese-styles-traditional-swiss\/","title":{"rendered":"Cheese Styles: Traditional Swiss"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Cheeses photographed by Nina Gallant | Styled by Chantal Lambeth<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

When you see the violet, narcissus, and thyme flowers swaying gently in the wind on golden-hued Swiss mountain pastures, it\u2019s tempting to get down on all fours and start munching. Little wonder that the native Eringer cows butt heads every spring to be \u201cqueen,\u201d as the winner secures a spot at the top of the herd hierarchy and on the best patches of grazing land. Indeed, the flora is linked with the social structure\u2014not only for bovines, but for humans, too. For centuries, Swiss life has revolved around it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s not easy to grow crops in the mountains, and before scaling rocky peaks was considered recreation, there was little reason to meddle with the steep slopes. Around 6,000 years ago, however, climatic fluctuations in the Alps led to variable temperatures and high-altitude forests were unable to regenerate during colder winters. As a result, tree lines descended, transforming woods into summertime grasslands suitable for grazing. Locals found a way to adapt to the harsh environment: Families, each with a few cows, formed villages lower in the valleys and herded animals collectively at high altitudes in warm weather. Here, on alpage (mountain pastures), were huge quantities of milk to process. The best way to preserve milk for winter? Make cheese, of course.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And so it continues: On an alp near the village of Gruy\u00e8re in the Fribourg region, Beat Piller and his parents awaken at dawn to transform milk into Gruy\u00e8re d\u2019Alpage and Vacherin Fribourgeois. Smoke from a wood-burning fire, which heats milk in copper vats, fills the room as Piller and his mother grab hold of either end of a cheesecloth and dip it into the vat. Using fine-tuned senses, they heat, measure, and distribute curds with machine-like precision.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In Switzerland, traditional cheesemaking serves many functions. Without the low-intensity, seasonal cow grazing that helps to regenerate and maintain them, these grasslands\u2014hotspots of biodiversity\u2014 would begin to disappear. \u201cProducing these cheeses helps us to maintain the environment,\u201d says Laure Rousseau-Favey, former marketing manager for the Gruy\u00e8re AOP (Appellation d\u2019Origine Prot\u00e9g\u00e9e) organization. Not all Gruy\u00e8res are made on alpage (or over wood-burning fires, for that matter); many are produced year-round in lower-altitude village dairies. These dairies are modernized, but they follow essentially the same recipe and are deeply reliant on the knowledge and experience of cheesemakers. Forty percent of the country\u2019s milk is made into artisanal cheese, and this cheese represents 70 percent of Switzerland\u2019s dairy exports\u2014impacting employment in marginal areas. The dairies also give local farmers a reliable outlet for their milk and, Rousseau adds, \u201cthey give people a place to buy local products \u2026 they keep communities alive.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Traditional cheesemakers have been able to stay afloat amid an encroaching transition to industrial dairying, albeit in diminishing numbers. The Swiss have long understood that the survival of small producers depends on teamwork. For the country\u2019s most famous cheeses, cooperatives and AOP groups facilitate supply chain organization and enforce quality standards. Take L\u2019\u00c9tivaz, Switzerland\u2019s oldest protected cheese. It may only be produced in summertime on the alp using wood fire-heated copper cauldrons, and all wheels must be aged and sold by the L\u2019\u00c9tivaz Cooperative.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Other AOP cheeses like Emmentaler and Gruy\u00e8re have slightly less centralized systems. Young wheels produced on alpages or in village dairies are typically sold to affineurs, who form long-lasting relationships with cheesemakers and often give them more money for wheels of particularly high quality. Aside from abundant space for cave aging and the capacity to work with retailers, affineurs have invaluable cheese maturation skills. Using ears, noses, and taste buds, they\u2019re able to determine when wheels are prime for sale, and which require further aging.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt\u2019s a natural, living product,\u201d says Roland Sahli, managing director of Gourmino, an affineur that exports Emmentaler and other Swiss cheeses to the US. \u201cEvery day, something can happen new\u2026 it\u2019s not like a bakery, where you put bread in the oven and one hour later you know the result.\u201d Sahli and his team closely monitor wheels from the moment they arrive in his cave until they leave, sometimes years later.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Gruy\u00e8re AOP<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Standing in an Emmi-owned cave in Moudon, Switzerland, surrounded by 160,000 wheels of Gruy\u00e8re, affineur JeanMarc Collomb echoes the sentiment: Each one needs care. \u201cYou know what the most difficult part of my job is?\u201d he asks. \u201cEach morning I have to come in here and say \u2018bonjour\u2019 to every wheel.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

While cooperation and organization around cheesemaking originally helped mountain peoples adjust to a difficult landscape, today these distinctly Swiss qualities serve another important function. In a small, mountainous country where large-scale agriculture isn\u2019t feasible, gourmet products help Switzerland stay competitive in the global marketplace. Now, to ensure a future for time-honored cheesemaking at home, the country\u2019s producers are targeting consumers abroad.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the US market, for example, this means reminding Americans about the difference between what they call \u201cSwiss cheese\u201d and real wheels and wedges from Switzerland. Swiss native Caroline Hostettler, owner of Florida-based importer Quality Cheese, remembers first bringing authentic cheeses to the US in the 1990s, to a market flooded with commodity block cheeses people think of as \u201cSwiss.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI had to explain to some very well-known chefs why my Gruy\u00e8re cost three times as much as what they called Gruy\u00e8re,\u201d she says. \u201cWhat we brought in was on a whole other level.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, the learning curve isn\u2019t quite so steep, but Hostettler thinks the Swiss still struggle with branding. From 1914 to 1999, the Swiss government strictly controlled its country\u2019s cheese production and distribution through a cartel called the Swiss Cheese Union. Under that system only Emmentaler, Gruy\u00e8re, and Sbrinz could be produced, so cheesemakers had little need for marketing. When the Union dissolved due to corruption charges, makers of those cheeses had to compete for the first time in an open marketplace, find niches, and rebuild their reputations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So far, the strategy of Swiss producers in the international market has been honesty: emphasizing the unique mountain pasture, expertise of producers, stringent environmental regulations, and GMO-free feed. But as competition grows, so does the need for innovative marketing. The Swiss seem to understand the value of their products, but they don\u2019t like to talk about it. \u201cI think we are too humble, almost,\u201d says Hostettler says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So, in the country\u2019s folklore, cheese is the ultimate metaphor: abundant yet precious and as valuable as gold but meant to be shared; a symbol of wealth and bounty but also a
reminder of the importance of modesty. Is it the job of the humble producer to brag about his finely calibrated skills and senses, about his small dairy perched in a dreamlike mountain landscape? Or can the cheeses\u2014massive in size and boasting rich, lingering flavors, punctuated by wild flowers, herbs, and smoky fires\u2014 speak for themselves? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tasting Notes<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

L\u2019\u00c9tivaz AOP<\/strong><\/a>
Vaud, Switzerland<\/em>
It\u2019s often compared to Gruy\u00e8re, but limiting the production of this cheese to the wood fires and copper cauldrons of the summer alpage guarantees that the milk\u2019s fruity, grassy aromas reflect the specific pasture where cows grazed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sbrinz AOP<\/strong><\/a>
Central Switzerland<\/em>
Parmigiano-Reggiano gets all the hype, but this extra-aged hard cheese earns top marks with connoisseurs. Unlike the Italian variety, Swiss Sbrinz is full-fat. By the time it reaches peak maturity at
24 months it boasts layers of crystalline crunch dispersed in a paste that crumbles and grates while retaining a surprising amount of fudgy creaminess.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Appenzeller<\/strong><\/a>
Appenzell, Switzerland<\/em>
A rich, complex classic dotted with small holes and famous for robust flowery aromas. Lacking an AOP, producers keep the recipe secret; it\u2019s said that only two people know what\u2019s in the herbal brine rubbed on the outside of wheels during aging.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Emmentaler AOP<\/strong><\/a>
Emmental, Switzerland<\/em>
Imitated endlessly but never quite replicated, these massive 200-pound wheels have many factors to thank for their perfect holes. Namely: artisan producers, affineurs who move wheels strategically between humid and dry caves, and hard-working Propionibacterium. A lack of saltiness or sharpness means that hazelnutty, sweet flavors\u2014which deepen with age and linger on the palate\u2014shine through.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Raclette du Valais \/<\/strong><\/a>
Walliser Raclette AOP<\/strong>
Valais, Switzerland<\/em>
When fresh, this washed-rind cheese has a buttery taste and mild acidic tang. Melting it fireside releases the cheese\u2019s intense fruity aromas, with notes of bouillon and raspberries\u2014it\u2019s best enjoyed atop boiled potatoes and cornichons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vacherin Fribourgeois AOP<\/strong><\/a>
Fribourg, Switzerland<\/em>
Perhaps the creamiest of all classic Swiss Alpine cheeses, its fondant-like texture makes it essential for fondue. The flavor is rounded and nutty, and grows earthier with age.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

T\u00eate de Moine AOP<\/strong><\/a>
Bern, Switzerland<\/em>
To savor this cheese\u2014thought to look like the head of a Bellelay Abbey monk\u2014shave off ribbons using a special cutter known as a girolle. Not only does this expose the monk\u2019s bald spot, it releases the spicy and fruity flavors within.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vacherin Mont d\u2019Or AOP<\/strong><\/a>
Jura, Switzerland<\/em>
Conventionally produced in the winter when cow\u2019s milk has a high fat content, this beauty is encircled in spruce bark and aged until custard-like with earthy, mushroomy aromas that mingle with hints of meat and smoke. Serve at room temperature or gently baked to slather on bread or potatoes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gruy\u00e8re AOP<\/strong><\/a>
Fribourg, Switzerland<\/em>
Dense and creamy, these sweet and salty wheels grow more robust with age\u2014nutty flavors deepen as crystalline granules form. Wheels develop distinct personalities and aromas that range from chocolate to
mushrooms to caramel to buttered toast.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In Switzerland, traditional cheesemaking serves many functions. Without the low-intensity, seasonal cow grazing that helps to regenerate and maintain them, these grasslands\u2014hotspots of biodiversity\u2014 would begin to disappear.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":41247,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[15,26354],"tags":[2087,14803,27629,1936,21218,2058,851,1734,2236,1227,3992],"coauthors":[290],"class_list":["post-41239","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cheese-iq","category-stories","tag-cheese","tag-cheese-makers","tag-cheese-styles","tag-emmentaler","tag-emmi","tag-gourmino","tag-gruyere","tag-le-gruyere-aop","tag-sbrinz","tag-swiss-cheese","tag-tete-de-moine"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCheese Styles: Traditional Swiss - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheese-styles-traditional-swiss\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Cheese Styles: Traditional Swiss\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"In Switzerland, traditional cheesemaking serves many functions. 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