{"id":41407,"date":"2022-03-16T14:10:53","date_gmt":"2022-03-16T18:10:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=41407"},"modified":"2022-05-11T06:21:59","modified_gmt":"2022-05-11T10:21:59","slug":"chefs-dish-rodrigo-oliveiras-caboco-is-a-first-for-modern-brazilian-cuisine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/chefs-dish-rodrigo-oliveiras-caboco-is-a-first-for-modern-brazilian-cuisine\/","title":{"rendered":"Chef&#8217;s Dish: Rodrigo Oliveira&#8217;s Caboco is a First for Modern Brazilian Cuisine"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/Screen-Shot-2022-03-16-at-12.54.08-PM.png\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-41508\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/Screen-Shot-2022-03-16-at-12.54.08-PM.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1305\" height=\"865\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/Screen-Shot-2022-03-16-at-12.54.08-PM.png 1305w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/Screen-Shot-2022-03-16-at-12.54.08-PM-300x199.png 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/Screen-Shot-2022-03-16-at-12.54.08-PM-1024x679.png 1024w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/Screen-Shot-2022-03-16-at-12.54.08-PM-768x509.png 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1305px) 100vw, 1305px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><em>Victor Vasconcellos (left) and Rodrigo Olivera<\/em><\/p>\n<p>What do people beyond Brazil\u2019s borders know of its cuisine? The answer is probably very little, unless perhaps they\u2019re thinking of juicy steaks or frozen a\u00e7a\u00ed berries. Brazilian chef Rodrigo Oliveira is on a mission to change that with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.cabocola.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Caboco<\/a>, the Los Angeles restaurant he opened late last year with fellow chef Victor Vasconcellos and veteran restaurateur Bill Chait as business partners.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/CabocoOliveria.png\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-41511\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/CabocoOliveria.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/CabocoOliveria.png 1000w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/CabocoOliveria-300x225.png 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/CabocoOliveria-768x576.png 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Caboco has the distinction of being the first modern Brazilian restaurant to open in the US. Despite earning a Michelin star, Bib Gourmand Awards, and a regular slot on <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theworlds50best.com\/latinamerica\/en\/list\/1-50\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">San Pellegrino\u2019s Latin America\u2019s 50 Best Restaurants<\/a> list for his S\u00e3o Paulo restaurants, Oliveira has resisted international expansion until now. This new venture, in LA\u2019s downtown Arts District, infuses Brazilian DNA into a bounty of Californian ingredients. \u201cCaboco is Brazil in California, because it\u2019s impossible to contextualize a restaurant without creating a real relationship with its surroundings,\u201d says Oliveira. \u201cIt\u2019s Brazilian cuisine but with a Californian accent, especially in the produce.\u201d Fish, shellfish, meat, fruit, and vegetables are all local, as are beans\u2014a mainstay of Brazilian cooking\u2014which are sourced from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ranchogordo.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Rancho Gordo<\/a>, a nearby farm specializing in heirloom varieties. Oliveira and Vasconcellos bring certain types of cassava flour over in their suitcases and import Brazilian chili peppers, amburana, cumaru (tonka beans), and puxuri\u2014beans with names that are as interesting as the flavors they impart.<\/p>\n<p>Cheese is also on the menu and, like Caboco itself, is a mix of Brazil and California. The chefs use Brazilian queijo coalho (curd cheese) in bai\u00e3o de dois, a traditional dish of rice, beans, and cheese (or cream) served with salt-cured meat. The dadinhos de tapioca (crunchy cubes of cheesy tapioca, see recipe) are made with a mix of queijo coalho and locally made queso panela. Oliveira also serves past\u00e9is\u2014pastries with savory fillings that are a classic street food in Brazil, fried in huge vats of oil at farmers markets. \u201cWe said, \u2018Wow, there are so many good cheeses here, we should do a cheese pastel,\u2019\u201d he says. \u201cWe fell in love with a California sheep\u2019s cheese\u2014<a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheese-library\/Lamb-Chopper\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Lamb Chopper<\/a> from Cypress Grove\u2014and use that to fill the pastel.\u201d Four years in the making, Caboco was an almost instant success when it finally opened, landing on <a href=\"https:\/\/www.lamag.com\/digestblog\/los-angeles-best-new-restaurants\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><em>Los Angeles Magazine\u2019s<\/em> list of the best new restaurants for 2022<\/a>, and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.thrillist.com\/eat\/los-angeles\/best-dishes-at-la-restaurants\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Thrillist LA\u2019s list of best dishes in 2021<\/a> for the dadinhos detapioca. \u201cWe opened without much fanfare, discreetly, because it\u2019s difficult to manage a full house in the first few days. But the Brazilian community showed up in full force,\u201d says Oliveira. \u201cI never imagined there were so many Brazilians in California. They came back with their American friends, and then the rest of the world showed up when journalists started to write about it.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>In S\u00e3o Paulo, Oliveira runs a small food empire. Mocot\u00f3\u2014a restaurant established by his father in 1973\u2014serves dishes from the sert\u00e3o, a poor, scrubby hinterland region in Brazil\u2019s northeast, where Oliveira\u2019s family comes from. A pared down version of this menu is served at Mocot\u00f3 Caf\u00e9 and a Mocot\u00f3 food truck. Balaio IMS is Oliveira\u2019s more upscale restaurant, in a wealthy part of town with a menu that nods to other regional Brazilian cuisines. Mocot\u00f3 is the crown jewel, although it\u2019s located in a working-class northern suburb well off the city\u2019s gourmet circuit. It\u2019s something of a pilgrimage for paulistanos on weekends, when lunch takes the better part of a day. A long wait for a table (the restaurant doesn\u2019t take reservations) is part of the ritual, but it flies by thanks to a succession of tropical fruit caipirinhas and plates of torresmo (pork cracklings) and tapioca cubes.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/Cabocotapiocacubes.png\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-41509\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/Cabocotapiocacubes.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"519\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/Cabocotapiocacubes.png 1000w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/Cabocotapiocacubes-300x156.png 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/Cabocotapiocacubes-768x399.png 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><em>Making dadinhos de tapioca (cheesy tapioca cubes)<\/em><\/p>\n<p>\u201cThe tapioca cubes were an instant hit when I put them on the menu at Mocot\u00f3 15 years ago\u201d says Oliveira. Their success has far outgrown Mocot\u00f3, copied by copious bars and restaurants and made in households all over the country; supermarkets even sell a ready-made version. \u201cI\u2019d love to own the copyright,\u201d he says with a good-natured laugh, but what he loves more is knowing that so many people enjoy his invention.<\/p>\n<p>In Brazil, the tapioca cubes are made with queijo coalho, a mild and salty cow\u2019s milk curd cheese found across the country in its industrial form, on wooden skewers. It\u2019s grilled at barbecues and even sold as a beach snack in Rio de Janeiro, browned on tiny coal grills that are hauled up and down the shoreline by vendors.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/cabocofriedcubes.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-41512\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/cabocofriedcubes.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1309\" height=\"870\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/cabocofriedcubes.png 1309w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/cabocofriedcubes-300x199.png 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/cabocofriedcubes-1024x681.png 1024w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/cabocofriedcubes-768x510.png 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1309px) 100vw, 1309px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>In S\u00e3o Paulo, Oliveira sources queijo coalho for his restaurants from Fazenda Atalaia, an artisanal cheesemaker in the interior of the state, but says that the cheese traditionally originated in Brazil\u2019s northeast region. \u201cOur farm in Pernambuco is in the middle of the sert\u00e3o. Our family made cheese. It was an important milk-producing region and where milk was produced, so was cheese.\u201d Today, many of the region\u2019s farmers sell their milk to cooperatives for industrial production, but some still make the cheese in the traditional way. \u201cCheese is still really important both culturally and economically there,\u201d says Oliveira.<\/p>\n<p>While some Brazilian cheesemaking traditions have lost out to larger scale operations, others have blossomed over the past decade. Star chefs in S\u00e3o Paulo like Oliveira were a catalyst for this cheese revolution, which began in 2012 when they first discovered Canastra cheese and began using it on their menus. The raw cow\u2019s milk cheese, which has a sharp and full-bodied flavor, earned a geographical indication status that year\u2014the first Brazilian cheese to do so\u2014giving a seal of authenticity to cheeses made in the traditional way in the Serra da Canastra highland region of Minas Gerais state.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cChefs gave regional cheeses a visibility that in turn created a market for small producers to sell their cheeses further afield,\u201d explains Fl\u00e1via Rogoski, a director of SerT\u00e3oBras, an association that promotes artisanal cheesemakers in Brazil. \u201cNowadays, artisanal cheeses are in demand in Brazil, and it\u2019s exciting to see the quality and the creativity of the producers getting better all the time.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Last year, Brazilian cheesemakers were earning prestige abroad as they placed second only to France in the number of medals scooped up at the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.cheese-tours.com\/#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Mondial du Fromage<\/a> in Tours. At the same time, Oliveira was starting to share the nuances of Brazilian cuisine with a new, international audience at Caboco. \u201cI see myself as an unelected ambassador for Brazilian cuisine,\u201d he says. \u201cIt\u2019s so diverse. Brazil is continental, with different landscapes, an intersection of cultures and an infinity of cuisines. We now also have a crop of chefs with the know-how to open restaurants in any capital of the world. If there was ever a good moment to do this, it\u2019s now.\u201d<\/p>\n<div id=\"recipe\"><\/div><div id=\"wprm-recipe-container-43607\" class=\"wprm-recipe-container\" data-recipe-id=\"43607\" data-servings=\"0\"><div class=\"wprm-recipe wprm-recipe-template-chic\"><div class=\"wprm-container-float-right\">\n    <div class=\"wprm-recipe-image wprm-block-image-rounded\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"border-width: 0px;border-style: solid;border-color: #666666;border-radius: 3px;\" width=\"166\" height=\"250\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/cabococubesplate.png\" class=\"attachment-250x250 size-250x250\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/cabococubesplate.png 578w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/cabococubesplate-200x300.png 200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 166px) 100vw, 166px\" \/><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h2 class=\"wprm-recipe-name wprm-block-text-bold\">Dadinhos de Tapioca (Cheesy Tapioca Cubes)<\/h2>\n<div class=\"wprm-spacer\"><\/div>\n<span class=\"wprm-recipe-details wprm-recipe-author wprm-block-text-light\">Rodrigo Oliveira<\/span>\n<div class=\"wprm-spacer\"><\/div>\n<div class=\"wprm-recipe-summary wprm-block-text-normal\">The original recipe uses queijo coalho but if you can\u2019t find that, queso panela is a good substitute. \u201cFreshness is really important with the cheese for this recipe,\u201d says Oliveira. \u201cYou can\u2019t use cheese with a long shelf life; it has to be a curd cheese and the fresher the better. It should have a delicate milk flavor with a light to medium acidity. If you can\u2019t find queso panela, then halloumi would also work.\u201d It\u2019s important to use granulated tapioca. Tapioca flour or pearls won\u2019t work.<\/div>\n<div class=\"wprm-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n<div class=\"wprm-spacer\" style=\"height: 25px\"><\/div>\n<div class=\"wprm-template-chic-buttons wprm-container-columns-spaced-middle wprm-container-columns-gutter\">\n\t<a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wprm_print\/dadinhos-de-tapioca-cheesy-tapioca-cubes\" style=\"color: #ffffff;background-color: #5A822B;border-color: #5A822B;border-radius: 3px;padding: 10px 5px;\" class=\"wprm-recipe-print wprm-recipe-link wprm-print-recipe-shortcode wprm-block-text-normal wprm-recipe-print-wide-button wprm-recipe-link-wide-button wprm-color-accent\" data-recipe-id=\"43607\" data-template=\"\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\"><span class=\"wprm-recipe-icon wprm-recipe-print-icon\"><svg width=\"16px\" height=\"16px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" version=\"1.1\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" xmlns:xlink=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/1999\/xlink\"><g stroke=\"none\" 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23.3569,23.7483 23.5529,23.5523 C23.9429,23.1623 23.9429,22.5293 23.5529,22.1383\"><\/path><\/g><\/g><\/svg><\/span> <div class=\"wprm-decoration-line\" style=\"border-color: #e0e0e0\"><\/div><\/div>\n\t\t\n    <\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredients-container wprm-recipe-43607-ingredients-container wprm-block-text-normal wprm-ingredient-style-regular wprm-recipe-images-before\" data-recipe=\"43607\" data-servings=\"0\"><h3 class=\"wprm-recipe-header wprm-recipe-ingredients-header wprm-block-text-uppercase wprm-align-left wprm-header-decoration-line wprm-header-has-actions wprm-header-has-actions\" style=\"\">Ingredients<div class=\"wprm-decoration-line\" style=\"border-color: #e0e0e0\"><\/div>&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/h3><div class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-group\"><ul class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredients\"><li class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient\" style=\"list-style-type: disc;\" data-uid=\"-1\"><span class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-amount\">10 \u00bd<\/span>&#32;<span class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-unit\">ounces<\/span>&#32;<span class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-name\">queijo coalho and\/or queso panela<\/span><\/li><li class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient\" style=\"list-style-type: disc;\" data-uid=\"-1\"><span class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-amount\">1<\/span>&#32;<span class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-unit\">cup<\/span>&#32;<span class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-name\">plus 1 tablespoon granulated tapioca<\/span><\/li><li class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient\" style=\"list-style-type: disc;\" data-uid=\"-1\"><span class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-amount\">1 \u00be<\/span>&#32;<span class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-unit\">teaspoon<\/span>&#32;<span class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-name\">salt<\/span>&#32;<span class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-notes wprm-recipe-ingredient-notes-faded\">less if the cheese is very salty<\/span><\/li><li class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient\" style=\"list-style-type: disc;\" data-uid=\"-1\"><span class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-unit\">Pinch<\/span>&#32;<span class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-name\">white pepper<\/span><\/li><li class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient\" style=\"list-style-type: disc;\" data-uid=\"-1\"><span class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-amount\">2<\/span>&#32;<span class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-unit\">cups<\/span>&#32;<span class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-name\">whole milk<\/span><\/li><li class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient\" style=\"list-style-type: disc;\" data-uid=\"-1\"><span class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-name\">Neutral oil for deep frying<\/span><\/li><li class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient\" style=\"list-style-type: disc;\" data-uid=\"-1\"><span class=\"wprm-recipe-ingredient-name\">Sweet chili jam or molasses for dipping<\/span><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div>\n<div class=\"wprm-recipe-instructions-container wprm-recipe-43607-instructions-container wprm-block-text-normal\" data-recipe=\"43607\"><h3 class=\"wprm-recipe-header wprm-recipe-instructions-header wprm-block-text-uppercase wprm-align-left wprm-header-decoration-line wprm-header-has-actions\" style=\"\">Instructions<div class=\"wprm-decoration-line\" style=\"border-color: #e0e0e0\"><\/div>&nbsp;<\/h3><div class=\"wprm-recipe-instruction-group\"><ul class=\"wprm-recipe-instructions\"><li id=\"wprm-recipe-43607-step-0-0\" class=\"wprm-recipe-instruction\" style=\"list-style-type: decimal;\"><div class=\"wprm-recipe-instruction-text\" style=\"margin-bottom: 5px;\">Cover a sheet pan with cling wrap.<\/div><\/li><li id=\"wprm-recipe-43607-step-0-1\" class=\"wprm-recipe-instruction\" style=\"list-style-type: decimal;\"><div class=\"wprm-recipe-instruction-text\" style=\"margin-bottom: 5px;\">Grate cheese finely (a food processor with the shredding blade is ideal for this) and mix with granulated tapioca, salt, and pepper. Combine well.<\/div><\/li><li id=\"wprm-recipe-43607-step-0-2\" class=\"wprm-recipe-instruction\" style=\"list-style-type: decimal;\"><div class=\"wprm-recipe-instruction-text\" style=\"margin-bottom: 5px;\">Bring milk to a boil, then add to the tapioca mixture. Stir until mixture starts to firm up and tapioca absorbs the milk.<\/div><\/li><li id=\"wprm-recipe-43607-step-0-3\" class=\"wprm-recipe-instruction\" style=\"list-style-type: decimal;\"><div class=\"wprm-recipe-instruction-text\" style=\"margin-bottom: 5px;\">Pour mixture evenly onto the tray and cover with cling wrap. Leave to cool and refrigerate for at least 3 hours (or up to 3 days).<\/div><\/li><li id=\"wprm-recipe-43607-step-0-4\" class=\"wprm-recipe-instruction\" style=\"list-style-type: decimal;\"><div class=\"wprm-recipe-instruction-text\" style=\"margin-bottom: 5px;\">Cut into cubes (roughly 1 inch) and deep fry in hot oil until golden. 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