{"id":41450,"date":"2022-03-16T15:53:43","date_gmt":"2022-03-16T19:53:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=41450"},"modified":"2022-03-16T15:53:43","modified_gmt":"2022-03-16T19:53:43","slug":"changing-times-for-britains-beloved-halloumi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/changing-times-for-britains-beloved-halloumi\/","title":{"rendered":"Changing Times for Britain’s Beloved Halloumi"},"content":{"rendered":"

The fact that one of the UK\u2019s favorite cheeses is a salty, pale, semi-hard item from a tiny island 2,000 miles away should probably raise more eyebrows than it does.<\/p>\n

Halloumi, though synonymous with Cyprus, is\u2014depending on which survey you consult\u2014 about as popular in the British Isles as its own darling cheddar, and even more so than Stilton. Due to its high melting point, Brits typically brown slices of it in a pan, and toss them in a salad in lieu of chicken, or on a burger with coleslaw. Sometimes, we like it floured and deep fried like French fries. This is probably an act of irreverence to Cypriots, who traditionally eat it fresh as a table cheese.<\/p>\n

The UK is the largest importer of halloumi in the world, and many have offered their version as to why. Is it because, when British barbecue season rolls round, it\u2019s well-suited to the grill? Perhaps it has something to do with the fact that a third of all holiday makers to Cyprus are Brits? Or is it more down to it being an inoffensive cheese and, like chefs\u2019 favorite, burrata, it needs very little prep? Maybe we can just chalk it up to being Mediterranean, and by extension, \u201chealthy.\u201d<\/p>\n

Such theories don\u2019t quite go far enough to explain Brits\u2019 obsession with halloumi. Especially since it\u2019s traditionally made with sheep\u2019s and goat\u2019s milk, while cow\u2019s milk versions of the cheese are what dominate British supermarket shelves.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Let\u2019s go back to 1878, when the Ottomans ceded Cyprus to the British Empire. The British (but, ultimately, not the Cypriots) were happy to have it fall into their possession\u2014Cyprus was later described by British officials as a \u201cfortress colony\u201d and a \u201cpotential centre of operations against the rising tide of Egyptian and Arab nationalism.\u201d Perceived as an \u201cunsinkable aircraft carrier,\u201d the island was, and still is, only really prized by Britain for its strategic value.<\/p>\n

Cyprus remained under British colonial control for the next 80 years, until 1960. To this day, its post boxes, embossed with Queen Elizabeth II\u2019s royal cypher, and red telephone cubicles (most of which are now painted green) remain. Cypriots drive on the left side of the road (Malta being the only other European country to adopt this from the UK); put on breakfast fry-ups and serve Sunday roasts; and shop in local branches of the British department stores Debenhams and Marks & Spencer.<\/p>\n

Some of the most significant residues of British occupation aren\u2019t quite so out in the open. In 1912, the British authorities in Cyprus started importing Devon cattle, a breed native to Southwest England. The herd grew and, due to the higher quantity of milk that cows produce over sheep or goats, cow dairying took hold. While as late as the 1970s cow\u2019s milk was not readily available to Cypriots living in rural areas, city dwellers were quick to embrace it. \u201cWithin the last few years,\u201d wrote Cyprus\u2019 Director of Agriculture, William Bevan, in 1919, \u201cthe more well-to-do townspeople have taken to drinking cow\u2019s milk, when obtainable.\u201d<\/p>\n

Bevan also noted, \u201cIf more attention were paid to growing fodder crops, cattle breeding could be greatly increased.\u201d Capitalist ideals began to foster in Cyprus under the British administration. Where before occupation it was seen as a mark of failure for a family to buy halloumi rather than produce their own, 1939 saw the founding of Pittas, a Cypriot cheese processor. Pittas would later control almost half the local halloumi market, 35 percent of exports, and eventually supply Sainsbury\u2019s supermarket on Cromwell Road in London in the 1980s\u2014the first time Cypriots in the UK could get their hands on halloumi from a mainstream source.<\/p>\n

Pittas was the first producer to pasteurize its cheese so that it could be exported, and, recognizing the cheaper cost of goat\u2019s milk over sheep\u2019s, adjusted its halloumi recipes accordingly. Then, as cow\u2019s milk was made more available, that was incorporated too. These days, some \u201challoumi\u201d can contain up to 95 percent cow\u2019s milk. Cypriots call it \u201cPittas cheese\u201d or \u201cchewing gum cheese\u201d to avoid sullying the halloumi name.<\/p>\n

Little surprise, then, that the art of halloumi-making is dying out. But, due to its fascinations, Britain has in recent years gained some of its own squeaky cheese producers. \u201cThe reason I started the business is to produce something that I remember and that I wanted to eat, and not be forced to eat the stuff that’s produced unethically and sold in the supermarket,\u201d says Anthony Heard, founder of Kupros, a small dairy in North London. Made according to his grandmother\u2019s recipe, the result is Anglum\u2014a cheese more buttery and subtle than mainstream halloumi, but also familiar enough to demand the attention of halloumi-enamored Brits.<\/p>\n

Heard\u2019s grandparents settled in London in the 1950s, making him one of the now 300,000 people in the UK with a Cypriot background. Even so, following halloumi-making traditions word-for-word isn\u2019t in his playbook. \u201cI started the business on sheep’s milk, and that’s what got my products well known, but I don’t really care about the term \u2018authenticity,\u2019\u201d he says. \u201cIf you can find a good cow’s milk that lives up to the sensibilities of the original, and you’re doing things all above board, then fantastic. I’m all for it as long as it’s good.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Broadly speaking, not staying authentic to the original has caused widespread consternation. Imitators across the world using cow\u2019s milk abound, and in the last few decades of halloumi\u2019s growing popularity, conversations have grown around how and where the cheese should be made. In 2021 the European Union Commission granted halloumi PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status, which means that only halloumi produced in Cyprus and \u201caccording to the traditional recipe\u201d could be marketed in the EU as halloumi. Crucially, though, it must be made with at least 51 percent sheep\u2019s or goat\u2019s milk. A stipulation that, since industrial production heavily favors cow\u2019s milk, has been lambasted by Cyprus\u2019 commercial producers.<\/p>\n

To further complicate matters, Britain\u2014where 40 percent of all Cypriot halloumi is shipped\u2014is no longer in the EU, and so does not recognize the EU\u2019s regulations. Halloumi is still protected under UK trademark laws, meaning only halloumi produced in Cyprus can be labeled as such. \u201cWe use the halloumi method to make our cheese,\u201d says Razan Alsous, who founded her creamery, Yorkshire Dama<\/a>, after fleeing to the UK from the war in Syria in 2012. \u201cGiven the character of the cheese, we call it \u2018squeaky cheese\u2019 instead.\u201d The fact some UK-based producers, such as High Weald Dairy<\/a>, still use the halloumi name suggests trademark law isn\u2019t as compelling as some might like.<\/p>\n

Halloumi, of course, is not the only food from a former colony to end up in the UK\u2019s culinary repertoire. Chutneys, curries, shawarma, and falafel are other examples, assimilated via whatever adjustments are required to suit the British palate. But prominent native foods from Australia, Malaysia, or Nigeria have not blended into traditional British culture in the same way that halloumi has\u2014or rather, the idea of halloumi. Taste and texture have succumbed to the urge to monetize and commodify whatever a large and powerful civilization happens to stumble upon. For the majority of British cheese-eaters, this is irrelevant. \u201cEven if halloumi is badly produced,\u201d says cheesemaker Heard, \u201cit\u2019s still quite tasty.\u201d<\/p>\n

Whether eaten fresh, pan-fried, or charcoal-grilled, its versatility makes it a fabulous base for warm-weather dishes. Check out five halloumi recipes here.<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Halloumi, though synonymous with Cyprus, is\u2014depending on which survey you consult\u2014 about as popular in the British Isles as its own darling cheddar, and even more so than Stilton.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":111,"featured_media":41453,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354],"tags":[2746,26957,9873,27984,2984],"coauthors":[27985],"class_list":["post-41450","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","tag-britain","tag-british-cheeses","tag-cyprus","tag-grilled-halloumi","tag-halloumi"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nChanging Times for Britain's Beloved Halloumi - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/changing-times-for-britains-beloved-halloumi\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Changing Times for Britain's Beloved Halloumi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Halloumi, though synonymous with Cyprus, is\u2014depending on which survey you consult\u2014 about as popular in the British Isles as its own darling cheddar, and even more so than Stilton.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/changing-times-for-britains-beloved-halloumi\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2022-03-16T19:53:43+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/Innovation2022_HalloumiFeature_Adobe-Stock-valentinamaslova-e1647309348322-938x1024.png\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"938\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1024\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/png\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Hugh Thomas\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Hugh Thomas\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"6 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/changing-times-for-britains-beloved-halloumi\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/changing-times-for-britains-beloved-halloumi\/\",\"name\":\"Changing Times for Britain's Beloved Halloumi - 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