{"id":41628,"date":"2020-03-15T16:48:00","date_gmt":"2020-03-15T20:48:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=41628"},"modified":"2022-04-21T16:53:18","modified_gmt":"2022-04-21T20:53:18","slug":"cheesemakers-saving-the-planet-one-cow-pie-at-a-time","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheesemakers-saving-the-planet-one-cow-pie-at-a-time\/","title":{"rendered":"Cheesemakers Saving the Planet, One Cow Pie at a Time"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

On a windless gray day in Waterloo, Wisconsin, when solar or wind-powered farms might be switching on their back-up generators, cheesemaker George Crave doesn\u2019t miss a beat. His family\u2019s farm and creamery run on renewable energy, as do their homes. Whether pumping 100,000 pounds of milk into the creamery or heating that milk to make 10,000 pounds of cheese daily, George can count on this energy, because it comes from one of nature\u2019s most reliably unceasing outputs\u2014poop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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From left: Crave Brothers Farmstead Cheese; Cows grazing at Crave Brothers<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We make it every day,\u201d George said of the waste that powers his business. We spoke on Waterloo\u2019s first sunny day in over a month, when George was feeling particularly grateful for the machine that converts his cows\u2019 manure into electricity. \u201cYou wake up at midnight, it\u2019s running, you come out at 6 in the morning, it\u2019s running. On a Saturday, it\u2019s running, on a rainy cold snowy day, it\u2019s operating, because we have new fuel consistently.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

That fuel is the methane emitted by cow excrement. A potent heat-trapping greenhouse gas, methane accounts for at least a quarter of today\u2019s global warming and is at least 25 times more harmful than carbon dioxide\u2014that is, when it\u2019s released into the air. The Craves, along with enterprising cheesemakers across the globe, are using something called a methane digester to convert these emissions into energy before they even reach the atmosphere.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

MAKING CHEESE SUSTAINABLE<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The first time I attempted to reach the Craves, they were hopping on a plane to Switzerland to visit K\u00e4serei Holzhof, a dairy that also runs on methane. George and his wife Debbie Crave, president and vice president of Crave Brothers Farmstead Cheese<\/a> respectively, call these educational trips \u201cworking vacations,\u201d and they go on them a lot. Before releasing their first cheese in 2001 (a mozzarella), they visited France, Switzerland, and Italy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

George and his brothers Mark, Charles, and Tom run the Crave operation, which they started after learning the ropes on their dad\u2019s dairy farm. Debbie grew up nearby and met George at a county 4-H Christmas caroling activity when the two were in high school. Now, they live on the 3,000-acre Crave farmstead\u2014along with all the brothers and their adult children. Their methane digester produces enough energy to power every building on the property, and 300 homes beyond that. \u201cSome people will say, \u2018Oh my employees ride their bikes to work,\u2019 or \u2018I recycle boxes,\u2019\u201d Debbie said. \u201cOkay, we do all that, but we also produce enough electricity for our businesses and [neighboring] homes.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How that works looks different for every farmer\u2014as of November 2019, there were 254 digesters on dairy farms in the US. For the Craves, it takes the form of two massive 750,000-gallon anaerobic tanks. These green-domed circular vessels take in manure, whey, and food waste from the farm and neighboring businesses (apparently, French fry grease burns great). The resulting slurry emits methane, which is piped out of the tanks into a generator that burns the gas, turning it into electricity. What\u2019s leftover is sorted, with liquids fertilizing the fields and solids dried into cow bedding.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cSome people will say, \u2018Oh my employees ride their bikes to work,\u2019 or \u2018I recycle boxes.’ Okay, we do all that, but we also produce enough electricity for our businesses and [neighboring] homes.\u201d<\/p>Debbie Crave<\/cite><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt\u2019s very soft, very little odor,\u201d George said when I expressed doubts about the cows sleeping in their own…well, you know. \u201cIf you\u2019re familiar with potting \u201cIf you\u2019re familiar with potting soil, you know you squeeze it real hard and it still opens back up, that\u2019s what it\u2019s like. The cows really like it, and then of course we don\u2019t have to buy bedding or use straw.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Contrary to what you might expect from a giant gas tank, digesters actually reduce odor. On farms without digesters, waste is often stored in open lagoons or spread onto fields, releasing methane (not to mention stink) into the air. Practices like open-air lagoons make dairy farmers responsible for a sizable chunk of global methane emissions. According to the California Air Resources Board, more than half of the state\u2019s methane emissions come from dairy farms.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Perhaps not surprisingly, states like California and Vermont are at the forefront of efforts to get more digesters on farms. In 2016, California Governor Jerry Brown signed Senate Bill 1383 into law, calling for a 40 percent statewide reduction in greenhouse gas emissions from 2013 levels by 2030, a goal aided by aggressive funding. Last year, the California Department of Food and Agriculture made $61\u201375 million available to farmers in grants for the Dairy Digester Research and Development Program.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe state goal has definitely been a boon to our business,\u201d said Doug Bryant of Maas Energy Works, a consultancy that works with farms to install digesters. Before the bill, Maas put one or two projects online each year; now, they have 40 digesters in development.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Maas consulted the Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company<\/a>, known for their award-winning blue cheeses, on the digester they installed in 2009. Similar to the Craves\u2019 in function, this digester on Point Reyes\u2019 scenic Tomales Bay farm would not have been possible without state funding.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe were able to utilize both state and federal subsidies and grants to help us with the initial installation,\u201d said Jill Giacomini Basch, who owns Point Reyes with her four sisters and their father, Bob. Four generations of Giacominis have farmed California land, starting with grandpa Tobias, who emigrated from Italy in 1904.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nowadays, the Giacominis run a very green operation\u2014from the digester to farming that maximizes carbon sequestration and controls erosion. They use a low-emission no-till drill; capture urine and wastewater through a flushing system that uses, and produces, recycled water; and pull residual heat off their methane-conversion generator to heat water for cheesemaking and sanitation. All told, they pay about 50 percent less on their energy bills than before installing the digester.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

TURNING POOP INTO PROFIT<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Meanwhile, in Vermont\u2014the California of the East Coast, as far as green energy goes\u2014a utility-owned program called Cow Power provides farm-made energy to consumers (and revenue to farmers) by giving them the option to pay a four-cent surcharge per kilowatt hour on their energy bill to get power from methane digesters.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Production facilities at Jasper Hill Farm<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Though not eligible for this program, the esteemed cheesemakers at Jasper Hill Farm<\/a> in Greensboro, Vermont, have really leaned into making the most of their manure. Their digester doesn\u2019t produce electricity (their solar panels do that), but it does generate enough heat to keep a glass-walled greenhouse growing Meyer lemon, fig, and banana trees year-round.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe built a system\u2014it was not a purchased machine, as the [digester] technology has not been miniaturized for our small-scale dairy,\u201d said Mateo Kehler, who co-owns Jasper Hill with his brother, Andy. Mateo lives above the creamery, in a building adjacent to the Green Machine\u2014their name for the digester and greenhouse.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Funded in part by state and federal grants, the Green Machine funnels liquid waste, whey, and wash water into three small methane digesters on the greenhouse floor that power the creamery boiler. Just outside, dry waste cures on top of valves that suck hot, moist air down and pipe it into the greenhouse. Once anaerobic fermentation is complete, the solids become barn bedding while the liquid empties into greenhouse reservoirs where microorganisms, aquatic animals, and minerals perform filtration. What remains is a fertilizer that spawns pea shoots, tomatoes, and other veggies on a catwalk suspended above the digesters.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe structure was conceived of and built to avoid installing a manure lagoon in the backyard of the Kehler\u2019s home,\u201d said Zoe Brickley, Jasper Hill\u2019s director of development and marketing. \u201cIt was less about powering the farm and more about trying to rethink the normal ways of managing a dairy farm\u2019s waste stream.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That management gets more difficult during the summer, when Jasper Hill\u2019s cows spend all day in the fields and it\u2019s difficult to capture manure\u2014a problem posed by any grass-grazed herd.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cYou can\u2019t tell the cows to come in at night and save your poop \u2018til you get back into the barn,\u201d said George Crave of Crave Brothers. And the challenges don\u2019t stop in winter\u2014when Wisconsin experienced a 30-below cold snap last year, the Craves had to use a back-up boiler to heat the manure in the digester to the temperature needed for methane production. Without enough heat to make methane, they can\u2019t make heat at all.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

MANAGING THE HICCUPS<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Even with these kinks, it\u2019s tempting to view methane digesters as a silver bullet. They represent a comprehensive solution to three of the largest environmental concerns of our generation\u2014excessive waste, greenhouse gas emissions, and energy shortages. But like most things that seem too good to be true, digesters fall just short of perfect.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt was less about powering the farm and more about trying to rethink the normal ways of managing a dairy farm\u2019s waste stream.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>Zoe Brickley, Jasper Hill Farm<\/cite><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Manure accounts for only half of cattle methane emissions\u2014the other half comes from burps. Yep, just when you thought a story about poop couldn\u2019t get more puerile, we must contend with enteric emissions, the fancy term for methane produced by bovine belches. A woman named Joan Salwen has been developing a seaweed-based cattle feed<\/a> that claims to reduce enteric emissions by 70 percent when added to regular dry feed, but that doesn\u2019t mean you\u2019ll be seeing \u201cseaweed-fed\u201d on your cheese label any time soon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cExperimenting with any new feed means that flavors in our products could potentially change,\u201d said Jill Giacomini Basch of Point Reyes. As a farmstead creamery, Point Reyes\u2019 main concern is their cheese\u2019s flavor profile, and according to Jill, \u201cfeed flavor\u201d is a thing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feed solutions are also problematic for grass-fed herds. Even if farmers could lead grazing cows to seaweed, they can\u2019t make them eat it.\u00a0\u201cMuch caution is needed with these to be sure the animals will still eat the food,\u201d said Deanne Meyer, Livestock Waste Management Specialist at University of California, Davis. She also worries that the energy to grow, dry, and transport seaweed could void any benefit from reduced emissions.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Manure digesters have a similar robbing-Peter-to-pay-Paul problem. According to Joe Rudek, a scientist with the Environmental Defense Fund, digesters only create a climate benefit if they replace<\/em> fossil fuels, not add to global fuel production\u2014which is what some cash-strapped farmers must do to stay solvent. There are no state grants available for methane digesters in Wisconsin (the Craves built their system on bank loans), so some farmers forego expensive electricity-generating systems to instead convert their methane into natural gas that can be sold directly into pipelines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

George Crave had just returned from Europe when we spoke, where he\u2019d toured areas powered by civilian-subsidized sustainable energy, with digesters numbering in the thousands. He told me that he views farmers as the original recyclers, and American farmers as the caretakers of the country\u2019s best natural resource: our dirt. To Crave, most farmers with digesters are saying the same thing: \u201cWe like it, we\u2019re proud of what we\u2019re doing, but gee whiz, it\u2019d be nice to get paid for it.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

WHERE THERE’S A WILL THERE’S A WHEY<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Cheesemaking at Point Reyes Farmstead<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

When you separate milk, curds become cheese and whey becomes…a business opportunity, depending on who you ask. Whey is the largest waste product in cheesemaking, aside from manure\u2014but it doesn\u2019t have to be. Read on for just a few of the ways cheesemakers are turning this watery byproduct into wine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feed the animals:<\/strong> From the makers of Prosciutto di Parma to Wisconsin\u2019s Uplands Cheese, \u201cwhey-fed pork\u201d is definitely a thing.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Make hooch:<\/strong> Whey can ferment into booze, which sounds niche as hell \u2018til you realize it\u2019s happening in the US, Canada, France, the UK, New Zealand, and Australia, where cheesemakers at Grandvewe Cheeses sheep dairy make vodka, gin, \u201cwhey-sky,\u201d and vanilla liqueur. In Ireland, one distillery even makes a sloe milk gin.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Join the fancy water fad:<\/strong> Boston-based Superfrau crafts traditional Alpine refreshers out of upcycled whey, in combos like Elderflower Lemon and Cucumber Lime. In New York, Iranian yogurt makers White Moustache turn their whey into Passionfruit and Pineapple Probiotic Tonics.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Treat yourself:<\/strong> Dairies in the Italian and Swiss Alps are creating a new revenue stream by offering whey baths, facials, and massages\u2014apparently, the protein-rich substance has skin-softening and anti-aging properties.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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