{"id":43729,"date":"2022-05-13T16:55:47","date_gmt":"2022-05-13T20:55:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=43729"},"modified":"2022-07-06T12:54:18","modified_gmt":"2022-07-06T16:54:18","slug":"a-vermont-legacy-continued-in-curd","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/a-vermont-legacy-continued-in-curd\/","title":{"rendered":"A Vermont Legacy Continued in Curd"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">With their signature cheeses, a third generation of Von Trapps preserves the family dairy farm<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-drop-cap\">Vermont winter is showing its true colors when I pull into <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/vontrappfarmstead.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">Von Trapp Farmstead<\/a> in Waitsfield on a late January Monday. A thick blanket of clouds is broken here and there by bits of blue. Outside the barn, cows from the farm&#8217;s mix of Normande, Montbeliarde, Ayrshire, and Jersey herd are resting on hay spread over the heavy snowpack. The peak of Mt. Alice rises behind them, purple\/black against the mottled sky. Inside the small creamery, Molly Semler stands on a platform stirring a vat of pale-yellow curds for Oma, one of Von Trapp Farmstead\u2019s four organic, cow\u2019s milk cheeses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cRight now, we\u2019re cutting the curd a little smaller because winter milk has more fat and protein,\u201d Molly says as she gently pushes a white plastic shovel through the full vat. After stirring them by hand, she attaches mechanical arms, which will further break down the curds until they are just the right texture. \u201cYou have to make seasonal changes in how you\u2019re making the cheese so that the end product stays consistent.\u201d The smaller curds are cut, the more liquid is released, which helps to give <a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheese-library\/Oma\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Oma<\/a>\u2014a washed rind tome\u2014its signature rich and creamy paste. She gives me a handful of curds to taste\u2014soft and velvety, they hint of the luscious cheese they will become.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2332.jpg\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"937\" data-id=\"43732\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2332.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-43732\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2332.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2332-300x281.jpg 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2332-768x720.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><figcaption>The farm includes 50-60 whey-fed pigs<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2334.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"595\" data-id=\"43730\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2334.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-43730\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2334.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2334-300x179.jpg 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2334-768x457.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><figcaption>Testing the cheese curds<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2335.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"825\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"43731\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2335-825x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-43731\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2335-825x1024.jpg 825w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2335-242x300.jpg 242w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2335-768x953.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2335.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 825px) 100vw, 825px\" \/><\/a><figcaption>Fudgy Mad River Blue<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Molly joined Von Trapp Farmstead in 2013, after studying cheesemaking at the University of Vermont\u2019s Institute for Artisan Cheese and honing her chops with the cheesemakers at <a href=\"https:\/\/shelburnefarms.org\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Shelburne Farms<\/a> and others. Sebastian von Trapp and his brother Dan launched the creamery in 2009, using milk from the herd kept by their parents, Kelly and Martin von Trapp. The farm in Vermont&#8217;s Mad River Valley has been in the family since  the late 1950s, when Martin\u2019s parents, Erika and Werner von Trapp, known by their grandchildren as Oma and Opa, moved their six children to the property and began a dairy farming operation, which they maintained until 1979. (Werner, one of the famed Trapp Family Singers, was depicted in <em>The Sound of Music<\/em> as Kurt.) \u201cOma was a super advocate for continuing to farm and the cheese business,\u201d says Molly. \u201cShe used to joke, \u2018Why did you name a stinky cheese after me?\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/A4B96A80-1FC9-441D-B31F-A1777D7E3AC5-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1001\" height=\"974\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/A4B96A80-1FC9-441D-B31F-A1777D7E3AC5-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-43736\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/A4B96A80-1FC9-441D-B31F-A1777D7E3AC5-1.jpg 1001w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/A4B96A80-1FC9-441D-B31F-A1777D7E3AC5-1-300x292.jpg 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/A4B96A80-1FC9-441D-B31F-A1777D7E3AC5-1-768x747.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1001px) 100vw, 1001px\" \/><\/a><figcaption>Business and life partners Molly Semler and Sebastian von Trapp work together in the creamery<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Sebastian has joined her in the creamery and is preparing to mold his grandmother\u2019s namesake cheese. He opens a valve near the bottom of the vat, and a tube pumps curds into a metal tray atop a rack of round plastic molds. With his right on the valve, he uses his left hand to control the flow of curds, guiding them into the molds before moving the tray to another rack and continuing the process. (The whey, which drains into a trough underneath the racks will be used to feed the farmstead\u2019s pigs; the delicious pork is among the local products sold at the adjacent farm shop.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-pullquote\"><blockquote><p>\u201cWe both had an urge to do something for ourselves and on the farm, and cheesemaking was something that made sense. It was a way to transform the family business and take it to the next generation.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>After sitting overnight, the cheeses will be loaded onto a cart and lowered through a hatch in the creamery floor to the basement  level, where they will be salt brined in a machine that Sebastian designed. Four days after Oma is made, it is shipped to the Cellars at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.jasperhillfarm.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Jasper Hill Farm<\/a>\u2014a little over 50 miles north\u2014where it is aged for a total of 10 to 14 weeks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2339.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1222\" data-id=\"43735\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2339.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-43735\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2339.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2339-245x300.jpg 245w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2339-838x1024.jpg 838w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2339-768x938.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><figcaption>Raw milk curds in the molds<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_9442.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"43737\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_9442-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-43737\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_9442-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_9442-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_9442.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/a><figcaption>Mad River Blue ages in a vault below the creamery<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_9461.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"43740\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_9461-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-43740\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_9461-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_9461-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_9461.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/a><figcaption>The farm store stocks a wide variety of local products<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>While the creamery employs four others, on Mondays, it\u2019s just Molly and Sebastian, their movements gracefully in sync amid the clatter of production. After Dan decided to move on from the cheesemaking operation, Marisa Mauro from nearby <a href=\"https:\/\/ploughgate.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Ploughgate Creamery<\/a> suggested that Sebastian reach out to Molly. The two eventually fell in love and are now partners in life\u2014raising twin toddlers\u2014as well as in cheese. \u201cMolly and I becoming a couple is part of the reason why we\u2019re still in business,\u201d Sebastian says. \u201cWe do this together, and I don\u2019t know if I could do this on my own or would want to.\u201d They recently built a house in a corner of the farmland and are happily living a rural life that Sebastian thought he would leave behind.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cGrowing up I didn\u2019t think I\u2019d have anything to do with the farm when I got older,\u201d he says. \u201cI wanted to go off to college and get a good paying job \u2026 but after working in the software industry for about five years I really missed the farm.\u201d Dan, who was working as a timber framer, was also looking for a change, and with fluid milk prices having dropped, their parents\u2019 dairy operation was struggling. \u201cWe both had an urge to do something for ourselves and on the farm, and cheesemaking was something that made sense. It was a way to transform the family business and take it to the next generation.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-3 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2327.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"705\" data-id=\"43738\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2327-1024x705.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-43738\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2327-1024x705.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2327-300x207.jpg 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2327-768x529.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2327-1536x1058.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2327.jpg 1562w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption>Kelly von Trapp tends the herd<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2337.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"830\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"43739\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2337-830x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-43739\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2337-830x1024.jpg 830w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2337-243x300.jpg 243w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2337-768x947.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2337.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 830px) 100vw, 830px\" \/><\/a><figcaption>Sebastian with one of his twins<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Knowing little about cheesemaking, Sebastian sought out Vermont makers to learn from, including Mateo and Andy Kehler at Jasper Hill Farm, who were planning to build their cellars. \u201cThe timing was good; they wanted producers to work with and we were the first,\u201d says Sebastian of the collaboration for Oma, which has won numerous awards, including Gold at the 2018 World Cheese Awards.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Von Trapp Farmstead\u2019s other three cheeses\u2014also award winners\u2014age in place, in two vaults on the lower level of the creamery. <a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheese-library\/Mt-Alice\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Mt. Alice<\/a>, a bloomy rind wheel, is the youngest, brined and then aged for a minimum of three weeks. <a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheese-library\/Mad-River-Blue\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Mad River Blue<\/a> and Savage, the latter a Vermont Alpine-style cheese that Molly describes as \u201ca marriage between a cheddar and a traditional alpine like Comt\u00e9\u2000or Gruy\u00e8re,\u201d are dry salted. The blue is aged for about three months, and <a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheese-library\/Savage\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Savage<\/a>, which is named for Samuel S. Savage, who settled the land in the 1700s, is aged for eight to 12 months.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For a small operation to make four styles of cheese is a considerable amount of work, but \u201cwe can\u2019t give any of them up,\u201d says Molly. \u201cEvery day has a different flow to it; today I was dry-salting Mad River Blue and Savage that were made on Thursday and Friday. Tomorrow we\u2019ll be taking care of Oma while wrapping Alice that\u2019s just bloomed. People who work with us get a very well-rounded cheese experience.\u201d They also get to be part of an enduring legacy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Award-winning cheeses are the key to continuity at Von Trapp Farmstead in Vermont. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":106,"featured_media":43733,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354],"tags":[1296,178,1721,1306,33550,14439,26416,14440,1089,2230,15798],"coauthors":[25425],"class_list":["post-43729","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","tag-cheesemakers","tag-cheesemaking","tag-mad-river-blue","tag-mad-river-valley","tag-molly-semler","tag-mt-alice","tag-raw-milk-cheeses","tag-sebastian-von-trapp","tag-vermont-cheese","tag-von-trapp-farmstead","tag-von-trapp-farmstead-cellars-at-jasper-hill-oma"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v24.4 (Yoast SEO v24.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>A Vermont Legacy Continued in Curd - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/a-vermont-legacy-continued-in-curd\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"A Vermont Legacy Continued in Curd\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Award-winning cheeses are the key to continuity at Von Trapp Farmstead in Vermont.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/a-vermont-legacy-continued-in-curd\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2022-05-13T20:55:47+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2022-07-06T16:54:18+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/IMG_2338.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1000\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1198\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Susan Axelrod\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Susan Axelrod\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"6 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/a-vermont-legacy-continued-in-curd\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/a-vermont-legacy-continued-in-curd\/\",\"name\":\"A Vermont Legacy Continued in Curd - 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