{"id":43990,"date":"2022-07-15T10:58:41","date_gmt":"2022-07-15T14:58:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=43990"},"modified":"2024-09-18T10:00:21","modified_gmt":"2024-09-18T14:00:21","slug":"meet-the-women-cheesemakers-from-brazils-serra-da-mantiquera","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/meet-the-women-cheesemakers-from-brazils-serra-da-mantiquera\/","title":{"rendered":"Meet the Women Cheesemakers from Brazil’s Serra da Mantiquera"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Photographed by Rebeca Figueirdo<\/h5>\n\n\n\n

Fazenda Atalaia is bustling with life when I arrive, hungry from the 85-mile early morning drive out of S\u00e3o Paulo into the Serra da Mantiqueira\u2014a mountain range that stretches some 300 miles across swathes of S\u00e3o Paulo, Minas Gerais, and Rio de Janeiro states. Tractors thunder about, cows are mustering for milking time, and the recently arrived flock of ewes is in the midst of giving birth to the farm\u2019s first batch of lambs. A strong espresso and a bowl of steaming p\u00e3o de queijo (cheese bread made with the farm\u2019s own cheese) provide a restoring welcome and encapsulate the synergy here between cheesemaking and hospitality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A steady stream of visitors turns up throughout the day for coffee, lunch, or just to stock up on cheese, bread, and freshly baked cakes. Cheesemaker Rosana Rezende greets everyone with typical Brazilian cheer and open arms. Fazenda Atalaia<\/a> hasn\u2019t always been a destination for visitors, though. This shift came about in 2016, almost from one day to the next, when Rosana\u2019s Tulha cheese won a coveted Gold medal at the World Cheese Awards in Spain\u2014the first artisanal Brazilian cheese to do so.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Tulha cheese being moulded into rounds<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI remember it as though it was today, I almost fainted,\u201d she tells me, laughing. The S\u00e3o Paulo cheese merchant Bruno Cabral from Mestre Queijeiro, who had taken her samples to the awards, rang Rosana with the news and told her to get ready to make a lot of Tulha. \u201c\u2018Tulha is going out into the world,\u2019 he said to me. And that\u2019s how it happened. It was a whirlwind of people. They didn\u2019t want to know if we were ready, they came anyway.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Blazing a Trail<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Fazenda Atalaia is on a growing trail of gourmands heading to the Serra da Mantiqueira to visit the cheesemakers, wine makers, organic farms, olive oil producers, and restaurants that have started opening in the region in the last decade or so, fueled by an exodus of city-dwellers in search of the good life. Unlike neighboring Minas Gerais, which is famous for its cheeses and even has a couple of (PGI) Protected Geographical Indication seals, the S\u00e3o Paulo stretch of the Serra da Mantiqueira doesn\u2019t have a cheesemaking heritage to speak of. It\u2019s precisely that lack of tradition that has opened the door for a group of plucky cheesemakers\u2014women, for the most part\u2014to master the art and give their cheeses a unique identity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/a>
Before Brazil’s recent artisanal cheese revolution, consumers were put off by the Tulha’s dark red rind<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
A selection of the best cheeses produced at Fazenda Atalaia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Goats joined the team at Fazenda Atalaia in 2020<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cAll the cheese in the Serra da Mantiqueira has been created in the past 20 years,\u201d Rosana explains. \u201cWe\u2019re part of the Caminho do Queijo Paulista [an association of artisanal S\u00e3o Paulo producers] with 13 cheesemakers, and none of them come from a cheesemaking background. They all started to make cheese for passion.\u201d Rosana is an exception: She grew up in Minas Gerais, where cheesemaking is the norm for rural families.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI\u2019m a farmer\u2019s daughter, and my father made cheese his whole life for the family to eat and whatever was left over he sold,\u201d she says. When she married her husband, Paulo, the couple dreamt of raising their children at Fazenda Atalaia\u2014the coffee farm that belonged to Paulo\u2019s grandfather, and where Paulo spent vacations growing up. They fulfilled that dream as newlyweds, some 30 years ago, when they took over running the farm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rusting machinery and raised brick patios for drying coffee cherries are still there for visitors to see, a testament to the farm\u2019s origins, which date back to the late nineteenth century. The couple also inherited a small herd of cows, whose milk was sold to a nearby dairy plant until the plant shut down, so Rosana started to make the fresh cheese she remembered from her childhood. When they got certification to supply the local supermarkets, Paulo added some Dutch cows to the local Zebu herd. There are now 300 head of cattle, all born on the farm, plus goats and sheep, which together provide milk for more than 20 types of cheese.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Tulha cheese is still their star, however. Given its international success, I\u2019m surprised to learn that Rosana only started to experiment with aging in 2012. Without the finances to invest in a cold chamber, she and Paulo set up a room within the old granary (called \u201ctulha\u201d in Portuguese, hence the name) where the coffee beans used to be stored. The 13-pound rounds of cheese\u20145,000 on average at any one time\u2014are laid out on wooden shelves and turned every day. At first, Rosana struggled to find a market for the aged cheese, but with a growing interest in artisanal cheeses, consumers\u2019 tastes have changed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The cheesemakers who are part of the Caminho do Queijo Paulista are mainly women. \u201cIn Minas Gerais, traditionally there was always a woman behind the cheesemaker, except that she wasn\u2019t visible,” explains Rosana. \u201cIt was different in S\u00e3o Paulo\u2014the women appeared because they\u2019re the ones that started the production. And when it comes to giving identity to the product\u2014the maturing, when to turn the cheese, if you want a washed rind, or fungus\u2014 each one has the freedom to do it the way they want.” The result? \u201cThere are no two cheeses the same, and this is so enriching. S\u00e3o Paulo is creating this movement.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/a>
Primavera is coated in edible flowers grown nearby<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Gir milk cheeses made at Est\u00e2ncia Silv\u00e2nia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Cheesemaker Camlia Almeida<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Winning Ingredients<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Some 120 miles further east, there\u2019s another determined woman at the helm of an award-winning dairy farm, Est\u00e2ncia Silv\u00e2nia<\/a>. The cheesemaker Camila Almeida didn\u2019t grow up making cheese, but she has put herself through dozens of courses to master her skills, including at the Academie MonS in the Loire department of France. A wall of trophies in the farm shop suggests that Camila\u2019s studies are paying off. At the Concours Mondial du Fromage et des Produits Laitiers in France last year, she won an astounding five medals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Camila puts the success down to the key ingredient: milk, 132 gallons of it, produced every day from the herd of 200 Gir cattle\u2014a breed originally from India that is well adapted to the hot climate. Each cow has a name, even the newborn calves that suckle their mothers for up to 10 months\u2014a system called \u201ccalf at foot\u201d that is becoming known as \u201cethical milk.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In another advantage over some European cattle breeds, their milk has no A1 beta casein, a protein that is more likely to cause intolerance than A2 beta casein. Camila and her husband Eduardo, a veterinarian, have spent years selectively breeding the herd, cloning a prize-winning bull, and genetically testing the milk, which is used unpasteurized to make the farm\u2019s range of 12 cheeses. \u201cWhen you pasteurize milk, you lose everything: the bacteria, the terroir,\u201d explains Camila. \u201cI want the cheese to reflect the taste of the milk. To have excellent cheese you need excellent milk, and to be unique, it has to be raw milk.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The taste of the mountains isn\u2019t just in the milk. Camila incorporates other local ingredients in delightfully daring ways. A Christmas favorite is the Taiada Silvania, a semi-cooked cheese studded with peanut-sized i\u00e7\u00e1 ants, which fascinated the judges in France at the Mondial du Fromage, she says. A delicacy in the surrounding valley, the ants make a mass exodus from their nests with the first torrential rains of summer, sending the locals into an ant-collecting frenzy. The Primavera, which won Gold at the Mondial du Fromage, is a firm, slightly crumbly cheese made with a hint of lavender oil. I watch as the small rounds are sprinkled with edible flowers\u2014hibiscus, calendula, jasmine, roses, and chamomile, all grown nearby\u2014before being vacuum sealed to age for a month.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Plans are under way to turn the bucolic farm setting into something wilder\u2014all of the pasture will soon be developed into native forest. The benefits are broad, from increased animal productivity and biodiversity to conservation of natural resources.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe\u2019re going to plant fruit trees,\u201d Camila enthuses. \u201cThe fruit will provide a return, too. I plan to make jam and fruit sweets to put in the yogurt. We\u2019ve already planted 4,000 trees and are going to plant around 5,000 more.\u201d Camila plans to have the cattle roaming among the trees on the 148-acre farm in just two years. It\u2019s one of the many things I love about Brazil\u2014that nature in this tropical climate can bounce back so fast. If land can be productive for farmers and also restore ecosystems, it\u2019s a glimmer of hope in the fight against climate change. \u201cPeople think that in Brazil it\u2019s all deforestation. But there are lots of people who do the right thing. When you win an award like [Mondial du Fromage], you show another reality. It\u2019s good not just for us, but for Brazil.\u201d And for cheese lovers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

TASTING NOTES<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

FAZENDA ATALAIA<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tulha<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Milk: Pasteurized cow<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tulha was Fazenda Atalaia\u2019s first foray into matured cheese, and it put the farm on the map when it won Gold at the World Cheese Awards in 2016. A parmesan-style cheese matured for 12 months, it is firm and lightly acidic, with crunchy tyrosine crystals and lightly sweet, salty, and fruity notes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Alvorada<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Milk: Pasteurized cow<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Penicillium roqueforti is the starter culture added to uncooked curds to create this delicate, blue-veined cheese that is soft without being oozy. Matured for two to three months, the result is a crave-worthy blue that is only lightly salted and mild enough to have a broad appeal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

EST\u00c2NCIA SILV\u00c2NIA<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Primavera<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Milk: Raw cow<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A gold award-winner at Mondial du Fromage in 2021, this cheese matures for a month in a colorful coating of edible organic flowers. The floral infusion doesn\u2019t overpower the sweet nuttiness of the farm\u2019s milk, making this a versatile cheese that goes with almost anything.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Serrinha Cerveja<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Milk: Raw cow<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another gold award winner at the 2021 Mondial du Fromage, Serrinha Cerveja is a playful twist on the farm\u2019s popular soft Serrinha cheese; this version has a Brazilian macadamia nut ale added to the curds, and the rind is washed three times in beer during the 45-day maturing process. Not surprisingly, it pairs very nicely with a glass of ale.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Photographed by Rebeca Figueirdo Fazenda Atalaia is bustling with life when I arrive, hungry from the 85-mile early morning drive out of S\u00e3o Paulo into the Serra da Mantiqueira\u2014a mountain range that stretches some 300 miles across swathes of S\u00e3o Paulo, Minas Gerais, and Rio de Janeiro states. Tractors thunder about, cows are mustering for […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":114,"featured_media":43999,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"yes","footnotes":""},"categories":[33649,26354,11],"tags":[],"coauthors":[27973],"class_list":["post-43990","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cheesemaker-profile","category-stories","category-travel"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nMeet the Women Cheesemakers from Brazil's Serra da Mantiquera - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/meet-the-women-cheesemakers-from-brazils-serra-da-mantiquera\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Meet the Women Cheesemakers from Brazil's Serra da Mantiquera\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Photographed by Rebeca Figueirdo Fazenda Atalaia is bustling with life when I arrive, hungry from the 85-mile early morning drive out of S\u00e3o Paulo into the Serra da Mantiqueira\u2014a mountain range that stretches some 300 miles across swathes of S\u00e3o Paulo, Minas Gerais, and Rio de Janeiro states. 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