{"id":45659,"date":"2023-05-10T08:45:24","date_gmt":"2023-05-10T12:45:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=45659"},"modified":"2023-05-10T08:45:25","modified_gmt":"2023-05-10T12:45:25","slug":"a-new-wave-of-dutch-cheesemakers-branches-out-beyond-gouda","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/a-new-wave-of-dutch-cheesemakers-branches-out-beyond-gouda\/","title":{"rendered":"A New Wave of Dutch Cheesemakers Branches Out Beyond Gouda"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Photographed by Hans Westbeek<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Though the history of cheesemaking in the Netherlands goes back to at least 200 BCE, it wasn\u2019t until the Middle Ages that the Dutch evolved into a nation of cheese lovers. The acres of damp grasslands reclaimed from the North Sea during this period proved to be exceptionally suitable for cattle rearing, and by the dawn of the Golden Age, cheese from prominent market towns such as Edam and Gouda (the latter properly pronounced HOW-dah) had become an important pillar of the country\u2019s economy. In fact, during the first two decades of the seventeenth century, traditional Dutch cheeses were even depicted\u2014usually cut open to display all their textural allure\u2014in many still life masterpieces, including in Clara Peeters\u2019 Still Life with Cheeses, Almonds, and Pretzels <\/em>(1615).<\/p>\n\n\n

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Still Life with Cheeses, Almonds, and Pretzels<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The country is immensely proud of its cheeses, and rightly so. But it isn\u2019t just the Dutch who are enamored with the wide variety of consistencies, aromas, and flavor profiles\u2014from the buttery richness of jonge kaas (young cheese) to the crumbling texture and citrusy notes of an aged komijnekaas (cumin cheese). The Netherlands is the world\u2019s second-largest cheese exporting country (after Germany and before France), and the wax-coated wheels are as much a national icon as tulips and windmills. It\u2019s no wonder that many tourists eagerly visit the historic markets, go on cheese tours, and make sure to take home a wedge or two as edible souvenirs. During the past few decades, however, a new generation of cheesemakers has been looking abroad and making it clear that there\u2019s more to Dutch cheese than its emblematic offerings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Back to Nature<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

France may be famous for its exceptional goat cheeses, but since 2011, stiff competition has been brewing (or, better said, naturally fermenting) in the northern rural province of Friesland, home to Doetie\u2019s Geiten<\/a> (Doetie\u2019s Goats). Following a career as a clinical, chemical, and medical microbiological analyst, Doetie Trinks traded her lab coat for a red Dutch farmer\u2019s bandana, and realized her dream of returning to her roots. \u201cMy parents were dairy farmers, but only my brother was destined to follow in their footsteps,\u201d she says. \u201cFor a girl, farming wasn\u2019t an option. So, I went to school and later got a job at a research lab in London.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Determined to do things differently, Trinks returned to Friesland and purchased six Toggenburger goats, an ancient Swiss breed known for its high-quality milk that\u2019s also suitable for meat production. Her goal was to make natural cheese as it was done before the advent of commercially produced cultures and rennet, as advocated by David Asher, author of The Art of Natural Cheesemaking: Using Traditional, Non-Industrial Methods and Raw Ingredients to Make the World\u2019s Best Cheeses<\/em>. Trinks, who studied with Asher, only uses rennet derived from her own goats and allows the microorganisms in the milk to develop naturally. \u201cDuring milking, the microbial flora on the teat\u2019s skin passes through, making the use of cultures unnecessary,\u201d she explains. \u201cIf I cooled (or heated) the milk, the flora would die.\u201d Additionally, she uses natural materials such as wooden vats and woven baskets, which help preserve the flora. Despite the myriad obstacles of Dutch lawmaking and safety regulations, Trinks has persevered. Today she has a herd of 70 goats and makes raw-milk cheeses from almost every family. Especially noteworthy is her Grutte Grize, a soft, ash-covered cheese with a delicate acidity and mild yeasty tang.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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From left: Doetie Trinks makes a wide variety of raw-milk cheeses; Trinks uses natural materials such as wooden vats to help preserve the milk\u2019s flora<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A Reflection of Dutch Terroir<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Christine K\u00f6ning started making cheese as a hobby in 2011 using milk from her family\u2019s dairy farm in the town of Zevenaar, located to the far east of the country and just a stone\u2019s throw from the German border. From the start, K\u00f6ning had her mind set on crafting unique, artisan cheeses. \u201cTypical Dutch cheese has been made here for centuries, and there are all kinds of specifications regarding how it should look,\u201d she says. \u201cI wanted the creative freedom that comes with making the lesser-known soft-ripened cheeses.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After much trial and error and valuable input from her first clients, she introduced her first bloomy-rind cheese, Witte van K\u00f6ning, in 2015. Aged three to four weeks and weighing about 7 ounces, it has hints of mushroom and notes of freshly churned butter when young but takes on a more earthy pungency as it matures. Though the cheese is reminiscent of camembert, she prefers not to use that name too much: \u201cWe\u2019re not in France and don\u2019t want to copy what already exists,\u201d K\u00f6ning says. \u201cOur cheese has its own identity, which is very specific to our region\u2019s terroir.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From the beginning of April until approximately the end of October, the farm\u2019s handsome Holstein cattle graze on lush grass that grows abundantly on the dense, mineral-rich river clay soils. Most of the milk is sold, but every morning, a small quantity is piped directly into K\u00f6ning\u2019s cheesemaking room next door to the milking parlor. Kaasmakerij K\u00f6ning<\/a> now produces eight different cheeses with the fresh, raw milk: four lactic varieties and four bloomy rinds. \u201cPasteurization would remove the milk\u2019s flora, which gives the cheese character,\u201d she says. \u201cWorking with raw milk allows for a full expression of flavor.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Choosing favorites isn\u2019t easy after tasting K\u00f6ning\u2019s cheeses. Yet the dome-shaped Bolle\u2014meaning “bulbous” in Dutch and referring to the cheese\u2019s appearance\u2014is deliciously surprising. Not only is it made employing the milled-curd method used in cheddar, but its piquancy and bold, spicy nuances fool your taste buds into thinking this bloomy rind is a blue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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From left: the handsome Holstein cattle at Christine K\u00f6ning\u2019s family farm; K\u00f6ning makes eight different raw-milk cheeses: four lactic varieties and four bloomy rinds<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n
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Witte van K\u00f6ning has hints of mushrooms and notes of freshly churned butter when young, but takes on a more earthy pungency as it ages <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Italian Inspired<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

It wasn\u2019t French-style curds but Italian that inspired Rutger Pekelharing to wave goodbye to his successful international career in information technology and become a cheesemaker overnight\u2014literally. A friend who had been making Italian-style cheeses was about to quit and invited him to help on the last day. \u201cWhen we were done, I looked in awe at the rack of cheeses we had just made,\u201d Pekelharing says. \u201cI drove home that night, just as the sun was setting, and for the first time in my life, felt like I had done something great.\u201d The following morning he went back, announcing he wanted to take over. Luckily, his wife Marieke was immediately on board, and the couple started making monthly trips to the village of Osmate in northern Italy to learn the art of cheesemaking under the tutelage of third-generation artisan cheesemaker Cesare Ribolzi. \u201cI was convinced we could make the same quality cheese but with our own unique recipes, says Pekelharing.\u201d Marieke\u2019s background in chemistry would prove very handy when it came time to start experimenting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When they took over Oudwijker<\/a> in 2015, the couple continued using the facilities at a dairy farm in Cothen, where the milk was (and still is) sourced. By 2019, however, they had built a small cheesemaking room with four aging cellars behind their house in Lopikerkapel. With the help of a small team, the Pekelharings make cheese twice a day, almost every day of the week, and workdays are long, often starting at 2:30 a.m.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Rutger and Marieke Pekelharing followed their hearts and became cheesemakers<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Their love for cheese coupled with hard work and dedication has paid off. The Pekelharings currently make six cheeses (two bloomy rinds, two washed rinds, and two blues) inspired by Alpine varieties such as taleggio and gorgonzola. Two of the cheeses\u2014Colosso, a robust blue with an intensely herbal nose and complex flavors of licorice and dark chocolate; and Stella, a washed-rind cheese with the smoky savoriness of toasted nuts\u2014are made with creamy buffalo\u2019s milk from a water buffalo farm in the town of Heusden.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Like Trinks and K\u00f6ning, the Pekelharings are proving that gouda isn\u2019t the only reason the Netherlands has earned a reputation as one of the world\u2019s most delicious (not to mention innovative) cheese destinations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

WHERE TO BUY<\/h2>\n\n\n
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Kaasbar offers 24 varieties of Dutch cheeses<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The cheeses mentioned in this story are available at some of the Netherlands\u2019 best cheese shops, delicatessens, and restaurants. In Amsterdam, you\u2019ll find them at Fromagerie L\u2019Amuse<\/a> (Olympiaplein 125), or head to Lindenhoff March\u00e9<\/a>, a farm selling quality products from small-scale producers, located 20 minutes from the city center in the town of Baambrugge (Rijksstraatweg 21).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For an unforgettable tasting experience and to learn more about these innovative cheeses, book a table at cheese restaurant, Kaasbar<\/a> (Ferdinand Bolstraat 10, Amsterdam and Lijnmarkt 12, Utrecht). Twenty-four varieties of Dutch cheese are temptingly presented on a conveyor belt with imaginative and often unexpected pairings. Oudwijker\u2019s Colosso, for example, is served on a chocolate cookie and crowned with shavings of dark chocolate. All the cheeses are hand picked from small-scale farmers, and wine tips are offered with each pairing.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In the Netherlands new generation of cheesemakers has been looking abroad and making it clear that there\u2019s more to Dutch cheese than edam and gouda.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":106,"featured_media":45683,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"yes","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354,11],"tags":[17419,17431,2251,1051,2255],"coauthors":[27810],"class_list":["post-45659","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","category-travel","tag-doetie-trinks","tag-doeties-geiten","tag-dutch-cheese","tag-gouda","tag-the-netherlands"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nA New Wave of Dutch Cheesemakers Branches Out Beyond Gouda - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/a-new-wave-of-dutch-cheesemakers-branches-out-beyond-gouda\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"A New Wave of Dutch Cheesemakers Branches Out Beyond Gouda\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"In the Netherlands new generation of cheesemakers has been looking abroad and making it clear that there\u2019s more to Dutch cheese than edam and gouda.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/a-new-wave-of-dutch-cheesemakers-branches-out-beyond-gouda\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2023-05-10T12:45:24+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2023-05-10T12:45:25+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/03\/1-Doetie-makes-a-wide-variety-of-raw-milk-cheeses-from-almost-every-family.-Hans-Westbeek.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"823\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1234\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Paola Westbeek\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Paola Westbeek\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/a-new-wave-of-dutch-cheesemakers-branches-out-beyond-gouda\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/a-new-wave-of-dutch-cheesemakers-branches-out-beyond-gouda\/\",\"name\":\"A New Wave of Dutch Cheesemakers Branches Out Beyond Gouda - 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