{"id":46613,"date":"2024-01-16T15:24:20","date_gmt":"2024-01-16T20:24:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=46613"},"modified":"2024-10-03T12:03:40","modified_gmt":"2024-10-03T16:03:40","slug":"firefly-farms","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/firefly-farms\/","title":{"rendered":"Making Cheese in Appalachia: Firefly Farms Reflects on a 20-Year Journey"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Two pieces of advice have shaped FireFly Farms\u2019 president Mike Koch\u2019s career: \u201cMy father taught me that longevity at a single company is important,\u201d says Koch. \u201cYou shouldn\u2019t be a job-hopper. That was a bad word in a Swiss-German family.\u201d The other was drilled into him by mentors during a 20-year career in the corporate world. \u201cFail fast, but be honest,\u201d he says. In other words, try new things in good faith\u2014and if they don\u2019t work, pivot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The story of the artisan goat cheese company\u2014which Koch co-founded in 2002 with his husband and business partner Pablo Solanet\u2014has been shaped by the seemingly opposing ideas of faithful commitment and constant experimentation. Over two decades in business, the creamery has earned armloads of national and international awards, expanded its product line from three flagship cheeses to more than 10, and shown that a sustainable, farm-based business can provide quality jobs and launch careers in Appalachia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Deep Creek, home to the company\u2019s compact production space and nearby cheese shop, attracts vacationers from Baltimore, Washington, D.C., and Pittsburgh with swimming, boating, and hiking in summer and skiing in winter. In a landscape dotted with small farms, the region\u2019s workforce relies on tourism, agriculture, and industries such as construction and manufacturing. But full-time, living-wage opportunities are rare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
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The original goat barn on Koch and Solanet\u2019s property<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Sign from their Accident, Maryland, make facility<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cFrom the beginning we were committed to creating jobs,\u201d Koch says. \u201cIf we could create a large value-added network for milk, we could help keep farmers in business. The other aspect was creating head-of-household, wage- earning jobs in Appalachia, which are not that common.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, you can buy FireFly Farms\u2019 goat cheeses at a co-op grocery store in North Carolina, at an independent cheese shop in New York, or at a supermarket in Northern California. Their ch\u00e8vre garnishes salads at Sweetgreen stores in the Mid-Atlantic, and you can order the company\u2019s cheese online from just about anywhere in the United States.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Their sought-after wheels might be easy to find, but the creamery itself is off the beaten path. Firefly is headquartered in the western tip of Maryland, less than 30 minutes on hilly rural highways from the West Virginia state line. If your idea of the Old Line State is based on blue crabs and what you can see from I-95, this thin sliver of forests, fields, and mountains feels like somewhere else completely.<\/p>\n\n\n

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BUSINESS AND LIFE PARTNERS<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s a place Koch and Argentine-born Solanet, a chef, fell in love with early in their relationship\u2014another success story that\u2019s shaped and paralleled the creamery\u2019s. The couple has been together since 1995, when they met on the dancefloor at a gay bar. \u201cI was shirtless in red jeans and he was shirtless in leather suspenders,\u201d Koch says. \u201cWe went home together and we haven\u2019t been apart since. He is the crowning blessing of my life.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After a few false starts\u2014painting, biomedical engineering, English literature, chemistry, and competitive swimming\u2014Koch found his way into the corporate world, climbing the career ladder to head up marketing and communications for Fannie Mae. Instead of putting their money in the market, he and Solanet invested in an 1865 farmhouse in the town of Accident, not far from Deep Creek, and split their time between the country and D.C. The couple launched FireFly Farms six years before the 2008 financial crash, when Koch decided it was time to exit the corporate world.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI\u2019m a die-hard optimist. I\u2019ll try anything,\u201d Koch says. That includes running FireFly as a farmstead cheese business first so he and Solanet could learn the ins and outs of operating a creamery. Milking animals themselves gave the couple essential cred when it came to the company\u2019s next phase: working with area dairy farmers looking for an alternative to a tanking fluid milk market.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\u201cIf you go to a farmer and say, \u2018I\u2019m a brand-new cheesemaker and I\u2019d like to buy your milk,\u2019 you\u2019re not going to find anybody who will leave their milk market and sell to an unproven buyer,\u201d he says. \u201cWe had to prove ourselves first.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, Firefly sources goat\u2019s and cow\u2019s milk from 13 dairy farms located within 30 miles of Deep Creek, with another four further afield they can call on as needed. The company\u2019s initial slate of cheeses\u2014fresh ch\u00e8vre, blue-dusted lactic bloomy-rind Mountain Top, and soft- ripened Merry Goat Round, all chosen for their quick-turnaround production that returns cash flow to the company in as little as 30 days\u2014has grown to nearly a dozen. Between June 2022 and June 2023, the FireFly team produced 272,000 pounds of cheese, mostly made from goat\u2019s milk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

PROMOTING JOB GROWTH<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Koch saw how a business like FireFly could make a substantial community impact during a stint heading up Garrett County\u2019s Department of Business Development, and it informed his and Solanet\u2019s mission to create good-paying jobs that can grow into careers.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/a><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

\u201cWe\u2019re very competitive for the area with what we\u2019re paying, the benefits that we offer,\u201d says Dan Porter, who started in FireFly\u2019s cheese room as a teen in 2004. He\u2019s since been promoted to director of operations, with a seat on the company\u2019s board. \u201cA lot of other jobs here are service jobs. You could make good money in the summer and in ski season, but in the shoulder seasons, it gets kind of slow.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The company now employs 24 full-time workers at its production facility and cheese shop, which spun
off into its own location in 2011. In addition to solid wages, health and retirement benefits, paid time
off, and sick leave, the workplace is structured so staff can explore their own interests while contributing to the success of the business. \u201cEveryone starts as a cheesemaker. Then we try to understand what else makes them happy\u2014food safety, affinage, fulfillment,\u201d Koch says. \u201cYou keep a foot in the make room, but you start to add value to the company in other ways.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The COVID pandemic triggered a flurry of pivots, including opening and closing a sandwich stand in a Baltimore food hall, investing in automation at the plant for simple tasks that include wrapping cheese, and reconsidering the idea that growing bigger is always better.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
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Black & Blue<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

\u201cScale is complicated by exit strategy planning,\u201d Koch says. He\u2019s in his early sixties, and after Solanet recently recovered from a cancer scare, the couple feels ready to slow down. \u201cIt\u2019s not going to happen tomorrow, but we need to start thinking about what\u2019s next.\u201d One path is acquisition, which requires more growth. But Koch and Solanet found that chasing scale isn\u2019t always good for business. Now, they\u2019re rethinking the future of FireFly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cInstead of acquisition, which has its plusses and minuses, we\u2019re considering all sorts of things, like a transition to employee ownership,\u201d Koch says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That focus on the future also includes investments in sustainability: powering the cheese plant with their own solar array, making energy-conserving electrical upgrades in the production space, and capturing nutrient-rich whey from cheesemaking and returning it to farmers to use as pig feed or fertilizer for crops.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe think about our packaging, water use, energy use, and the sustainability of our farms,\u201d Koch says. Part of FireFly\u2019s vendor relationship with Sweetgreen, which purchases the creamery\u2019s fresh ch\u00e8vre and cow\u2019s milk blue, includes sustainability benchmarks as part of its own zero-carbon mission. \u201cThey\u2019ve come out and measured our carbon footprint, which is thrilling for us, so now we\u2019re able to track its progress towards zero and hopefully one day, regenerative status,\u201d Koch says. \u201cThat would be my happy thought.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

For founders Mike Koch and Pablo Solanet, building a cheese business in western Maryland has always been about the journey, not the destination<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":114,"featured_media":46617,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[33649],"tags":[],"coauthors":[33960],"class_list":["post-46613","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cheesemaker-profile"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nMaking Cheese in Appalachia: Firefly Farms Reflects on a 20-Year Journey - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/firefly-farms\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Making Cheese in Appalachia: Firefly Farms Reflects on a 20-Year Journey\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"For founders Mike Koch and Pablo Solanet, building a cheese business in western Maryland has always been about the journey, not the destination\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/firefly-farms\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2024-01-16T20:24:20+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2024-10-03T16:03:40+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/FireflyFarmsforCulture-14.png\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1118\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1600\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/png\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Alexandra Jones\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Alexandra Jones\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"7 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/firefly-farms\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/firefly-farms\/\",\"name\":\"Making Cheese in Appalachia: Firefly Farms Reflects on a 20-Year Journey - 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