{"id":48165,"date":"2024-08-26T09:19:56","date_gmt":"2024-08-26T13:19:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=48165"},"modified":"2024-08-26T17:27:44","modified_gmt":"2024-08-26T21:27:44","slug":"meet-anthony-cho-the-engineer-turned-cheesemaker-shaking-up-koreas-cheese-scene","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/meet-anthony-cho-the-engineer-turned-cheesemaker-shaking-up-koreas-cheese-scene\/","title":{"rendered":"Meet Anthony Cho: The engineer-turned-cheesemaker shaking up Korea\u2019s cheese scene"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\n
\"\"<\/a>
Haesun (left) and Anthony Cho (right) standing in front of their deli<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
Restaurant seats at Cheese Flo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

A large deli case greets you when you open the door to Cheese Flo<\/a>. Fromage blanc, stracchino, feta, Brillat-Savarin, halloumi, mozzarella, and crottin are scattered under the glass. Some of the cheeses are created in house and are named with geography in mind, for example, the Brie de Hannam is named after the Hannam neighborhood, and Italeggio and Itaewon Blue after Itaewon street. Above the case, hams dangle from the ceiling.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Anthony Cho was busy when I ducked into the restaurant from the sweltering July heat. The 57-year-old cheesemaker was hard at work behind the deli counter in a small, glass-insulated room. His wife offered me a glass of water. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI\u2019m in the process of reinterpreting lactic cheeses in a Korean way,\u201d Cho explains from behind the glass. \u201cOn a washed-rind cheese, I\u2019m using Korean traditional liquor. On a cheese like crottin, I\u2019m using a Gamtae Seaweed<\/a> coating instead of ash.\u201d Cho is preparing to supply these new cheeses to Evett, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Seoul. Though the head chef is not Korean, he wants to create a fine dining experience using Korean ingredients.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Life Before Cheese<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Before his path in food began, Cho was a mechanical engineering and business major at Yonsei University, and began working at Samsung after graduating. Five years later, in 1997, Korea slid into a financial crisis<\/a> and the corporate job he landed with consistent salary, insurance, and stability was on shaky ground. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI want to quit my job and become a chef,\u201d he recalls exclaiming to his family.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Anthony\u2019s words were assertive despite the worried expression of his free-spirited wife, Haesun. \u201cLet\u2019s move to London,\u201d he followed up. \u201cIt will be great for our son and daughter to learn English. I\u2019m in my mid-thirties, and I don\u2019t think I can wait any longer to start something new. There is no promise that I will stay employed. I need to find my own edge that can withstand an ever-changing world.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Haesun paused and said \u201cPromise me one thing. Promise me that you won\u2019t look back once we go down this road. Give it everything you have, and I will be right there by your side to support you.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Following Haesun\u2019s inspiring words, Cho ditched his tailored suit for a chef\u2019s coat. At Le Cordon Bleu, Anthony\u2019s classmates provided little camaraderie. In his memoir Cheese My Life<\/em>, he recalls an instance when a fellow Korean student, a younger woman, said, \u201cWhy is this old man trying to cook? He\u2019s causing such a scene.\u201d Anthony learned to cook surrounded by people who looked, sounded, and acted nothing like him. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThere were things I experienced that I can\u2019t bear to relive,\u201d Cho recalls. His savings lasted him two months after finding a flat for his family and paying 15,000 pounds for tuition. His first job was as a glass collector at a pub in Hammersmith where he worked part-time when he wasn\u2019t attending class. He was paid 4.5 pounds per hour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cho landed a second job as a line chef at the three-starred Chez Nico. The restaurant was an hour tube ride from his flat in Ealing Broadway, and combined with his pub job and classes, Cho recalls only getting around 6 hours of sleep each night.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A full academic year, and several restaurant stints later, Cho returned to Korea. Upon his return, he unsuccessfully sought employment in a field dominated by 20-somethings who live in a culturally gerontocratic<\/a> society. After another year, Cho opened his first restaurant, Kitchen Flo. It was a hit. After two successful years, Cho reinvested his entire earnings to expand the restaurant, but the year was 2008 and the financial crisis drove patrons away from fine dining restaurants to gastropubs and izakayas. In 2010, Cho took out a mortgage on his home and opened the gastropub Chez Flo. Like Kitchen Flo, it too was a hit. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Still, the fleeting trends of the restaurant industry sang a melody that was all too familiar. \u201cCheese,\u201d he thought, \u201cmight not [be so fleeting].\u201d In 2016, Cho opened Cheese Flo and began producing slow foods<\/a> like hams and cheese\u2014artisan goods that resist mass production and are immovable by the temperamental geist of the food world. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Cheese Flo\u2019s Brie de Hannam<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Early Cheese Years<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Cho made his first cheese about ten years ago\u2014a camembert style\u2014after attending the New Zealand Cheese School in Putaruru, New Zealand. During those early years of experimentation, he would drive to a dairy farm on Sunday mornings to buy enough milk to make cheese for the week. He recalls wasting hundreds of liters of milk that formed into \u201cprotein balls\u201d instead of quality cheese. When he finally<\/em> made his first successful cheese, he leaned back into his chair and smoked a cigarette like Vito Corleone. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Since then, Cho has attended Academie Opus Caesar\u2019s in France and Antica Corte Pallavicina in Italy<\/a> to continue studying cheese and salumi making.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

While Cho does not refer to Cheese Flo as a family business, his family members have certainly contributed extensively. Haesun, Cho\u2019s wife, works full time managing Cheese Flo\u2019s instagram<\/a>, website<\/a>, blog<\/a> and YouTube<\/a>, while Cho\u2019s daughter, a graphic designer, helped design the Cheese Flo logo. Cho admits it would be nice if the whole family could work together, but he\u2019s also happy his children (his son is an architect) have opted for more conventional careers. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Being an artisanal cheesemaker in Korea, however, is no easy task. Cho has long wrestled with tactful ways to preserve his craft, a necessity in a country whose policy makers remain comfortable with food systems that are optimized for large food corporations, and a public obsessed with imported products. For cheesemakers, there is a need to create brand awareness for yourself, your foods, your methods, and, most importantly, your drive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
The cheesemaking room at Cheese Flo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Today and Beyond<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Artisans often prioritize craft over sales. While venues like Seoul\u2019s newest farmer\u2019s market Marche<\/a> offer opportunities for artisans to sell their products, Cho believes there is still room for growth. He and Heasun plan to include cheeses from small cheese producers from around Korea in their annual holiday cheese gift box to raise awareness about local artisans. \u201cEach region of the Korean peninsula is unique, and [so are] their respective specialty foods,\u201d Cho said. \u201cWe must begin preserving these cultural gems so they can last and grow over generations to come.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cho\u2019s dream is to open his own creamery. He envisions massive underground caves where he can age his cheese with arches made of old stone, such as those in Emilia Romagna. He wants his future property to have a vegetable garden and a vineyard, which will supply his in-house Michelin-starred restaurant. Perhaps during the day, a historian or anthropologist will host tours informing visitors about the history of the land and cultural traditions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThere\u2019s no quick profit\u2014only an incredibly uncertain future, for us artisans. If you have a family, it\u2019s an even harder task. For someone to live a life dedicated to a single field requires enormous discipline. Money helps but doesn\u2019t create artisanal food,\u201d Cho says. \u201cSacrifice, dedication, and real strength in the face of incredible hardships\u2014that is what it means to be an artisan.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Haesun (left) and Anthony Cho (right) standing in front of their deli Restaurant seats at Cheese Flo A large deli case greets you when you open the door to Cheese Flo. Fromage blanc, stracchino, feta, Brillat-Savarin, halloumi, mozzarella, and crottin are scattered under the glass. 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