{"id":48342,"date":"2024-10-01T16:55:33","date_gmt":"2024-10-01T20:55:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=48342"},"modified":"2024-10-03T12:09:42","modified_gmt":"2024-10-03T16:09:42","slug":"new-jersey-cheese-trail","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/new-jersey-cheese-trail\/","title":{"rendered":"New Jersey’s Artisan Cheeses (and Where to Find Them)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Just outside of Manhattan, the Garden State offers cheeses worth celebrating\u2014and eating, too! <\/h4>\n\n\n\n
\"A<\/a>
The exterior of Cherry\nGrove Farm\u2019s store in Lawrence Township, New Jersey. Photographed by Shilpa Iyer.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Throughout my nearly two decades in the cheese industry, I have never considered New Jersey a cheese destination\u2014until now. As a cheese lover and writer, it\u2019s taken years for me to discover the bounty and diversity of artisan cheesemakers in my new home state.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 2020, my family and I moved to the Garden State, a place near and dear to me, having no idea it was a burgeoning cheese hub. I am thrilled to report that legacy makers\u2014a few decades constitute \u201clegacy\u201d in the relatively young world of American artisan cheese\u2014and brilliant newbies are crafting cheeses worth pursuing, wherever you call home. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Years ago, before we settled in New Jersey, I visited Bobolink Dairy and Bakehouse, a regenerative farmstead dairy. Now I live just a few miles away, and I always have a knob of their butter in my fridge. I\u2019ve become enamored with Cherry Grove Farm\u2019s spicy Abruzze Jawn, made with milk from their herd of grass-fed cows and studded with zesty peppers and spices. And when my toddler was invited to feed baby goats at Gorgeous Goat Creamery, I discovered a gorgeously crafted fresh ch\u00e8vre that could rival its French counterpart.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Get to know these five New Jersey cheesemakers who are hard at work creating delicious cheese and enriching their communities.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Jonathan<\/a>
Jonathan and Nina White, the owners of Bobolink Dairy and Bakehouse. Photographed by Shilpa Iyer.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

BOBOLINK DAIRY & BAKEHOUSE<\/strong>
When husband-and-wife team Jonathan and Nina White founded Bobolink Dairy and Bakehouse in 2002 in Milford, New Jersey, making grass-fed, farmstead cheeses on their small-scale regenerative farm began as an experiment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At first novice cheesemakers, the Whites gave themselves a crash course on their own property, focusing on cheese as \u201cpart of a circle of interlinked products in a seasonal rhythm,\u201d Nina says. \u201cWe were working with Mother Nature to heal the earth and help nurture its creatures.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

They\u2019ve created something extraordinary and become a second home to many in their community. Last week, my family gathered on a green stretch of their pasture to listen to Na’Bodach, a swinging Celtic band. My kids danced their hearts out, climbed over the hills to peep the tractors and a few majestic cows, and feasted on cheese plates, burgers from Bobolink\u2019s own pasture-raised cows, and homemade strawberry ice cream. We bought some chewy lemon thyme cookies at the farm store around the corner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bobolink\u2019s cheeses are \u201clive, native, vibrant, and complex,\u201d explains Nina. Made with native cultures and milk from their herd of 65 cows, their line of cheeses leans into funk and the farmhouse flavors shine through (the number of cheeses offered changes with the seasons), from soft-ripened Amram to crumbly, bold Jean Louis. Standouts include Frolic, a subtly grassy, Alpine-style melter that pairs flexibly with a variety of accompaniments, and Cave-Aged cheddar, a savory, crystal-studded cheese that brings mac and cheese and chili to the next level. The latter is made in collaboration with Amish graziers in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, who age the cheddar wheels for up to two years before returning them to Bobolink.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

369 Stamets Rd.
Milford, NJ 08848
cowsoutside.com<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Cows<\/a>
The cows of Cherry Grove Farm. Photographed by Shilpa Iyer. <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

CHERRY GROVE FARM<\/strong>
As we walked through his cheese caves, Paul Lawler, Cherry Grove Farm\u2019s head cheesemaker, pointed out wheels of Herdsman, Havilah, and Toma resting gracefully on racks in a temperature and humidity-controlled environment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cherry Grove\u2019s cheese caves have grown slowly but surely, one grant at a time, and they\u2019re constantly experimenting with new recipes. \u201cCheese is always surprising and always challenging,\u201d Lawler says. \u201cEach cheese has a real specificity of flavor from our little herd.\u201d Cherry Grove uses the farmstead model, which means everything happens on their property, from milking cows to crafting and aging cheese.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I fell for their Toma, a semi-soft washed-rind wheel that tasted of tangy yogurt, lemon zest, and sea salt; as well as Trilby, which is washed with Dad\u2019s Hat Rye Whiskey and wrapped in applejack-soaked fig leaves from the farm\u2019s trees. Their Abruzze Jawn, made with a heady mix of peppers that includes red pepper, ancho, pepperoncini, guajillo, and pimenton,\u201ctastes like pepperoni for vegetarians,\u201d Lawler says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Oliver Hamill, Cherry Grove Farm\u2019s owner, began his farm in 2002 on land in Lawrenceville that has been in his family for more than a century. Originally leased to several dairy farmers, Hamill had a vision to consolidate the farm, prioritizing regenerative agricultural practices such as rotational grazing to make sure the land would thrive for generations to come. Hamill took me on a tractor ride across the 200 acres of certified organic, idyllic green pasture (there are also nearly 300 acres of undeveloped woodlands and wetlands) to meet his herd of mostly Jersey cows (with a smattering of Milking Shorthorn, Friesian, Ayrshire, and Dutch Belted breeds for added diversity) and whey-fed heritage pigs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Their charm-filled shop stocksa sampling of the abundance from their farm, including their farmstead cheeses, grass-fed beef, whey-fed pork, a selection of salamis, and pastured eggs, plus other local goodies such as Eat This Yum! marmalade from Bucks County, Pennsylvania.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

3200 Lawrenceville Rd.
Lawrence Township, NJ 08648
cherrygrovefarm.com<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A<\/a>
A plate of cheeses from Gorgeous Goat Creamery. Photographed by Shilpa Iyer<\/em>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

GORGEOUS GOAT CREAMERY<\/strong>
In 2020, Maria Stewart and her husband, Matt Kriegler, launched Gorgeous Goat Creamery in Stockton \u201cas a happy accident,\u201d Stewart explains, after purchasing four goats to help clear out weeds and invasive species on their 17-acre farm, which was largely hardwood forest. \u201cHow do you not fall in love with them?\u201d she asks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At first, Stewart experimented with making goat cheese in her kitchen, drawing from her background in food science to guide her. \u201cSome cheese tasted like feet, but some was absolutely delicious,\u201d she remembers. When Stewart was pleased with her results, she began questioning: What does it take to start a dairy operation? From farm design and procuring proper equipment to dealing with the departments of health and agriculture, the couple had a significant amount of work on their plate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

These days, Kriegler makes the cheese and Stewart manages their small herd of goats, which involves breeding, kidding, feeding, cleaning, and caring for their health. They use firewood from their own property to heat their home, provide shelter for their animals, and create their rustically beautiful market displays. Their staple fresh ch\u00e8vre is a spreadable, citrusy topping for bagels and crackers. They also make a briny, bright, 100 percent goat\u2019s milk feta, and a goat\u2019s milk yogurt with probiotic cultures, which doubles as a flavor-packed, tangy base for salad dressings and tzatziki. Their pasteurized goat\u2019s milk is the only farmstead-bottled goat\u2019s milk available in New Jersey.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As the operation expands, Gorgeous Goat will move to a new property nearby with plenty of room for a state-of-the-art cheese processing facility where they\u2019ll develop a new aged goat\u2019s milk cheese. However, they don\u2019t plan on getting too big. Stewart explains, \u201c[We don\u2019t] want to get to the size where our goats all have numbers\u2014we want to know all the goats by name.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

71 Featherbed Ln.
Stockton, NJ 08559
gorgeousgoat.com<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Smiling<\/a>
Benita Kasbo of Kasbo’s Market. Photographed by Shilpa Iyer.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

KASBO\u2019S MARKET<\/strong>
As a toddler, Benita Kasbo moved from Aleppo, Syria, to Paterson, New Jersey, with her family, but it wasn\u2019t until she became a mother that she started making jibneh, an Arabic cheese, in her home kitchen. During the pandemic, Kasbo decided to turn her cheesemaking hobby into a career. Today, she crafts her jibneh in a commercial kitchen in Madison, and distributes the cheese to local shops and Zabar\u2019s in New York City. \u201cI love broadening people\u2019s palates and perspectives,\u201d Kasbo says. \u201cI love instilling a positive feeling about a part of the world that can be challenging.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kasbo starts her cheesemaking process with whole cow\u2019s milk curd, which she cuts, cures with salt, and drains. The cured curds are then boiled in a water bath with mahleb, a spice made from the ground stones of the cherry species Prunus mahaleb; the process perfumes the whole kitchen with a floral nuttiness. This aromatic spice gives the mild, snackable cheese a distinctively sweet, roasted almond depth. Jibneh shines in watermelon salads, and Kasbo especially enjoys the cheese melted on pita bread with Aleppo pepper, dried mint, and olive oil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For Kasbo, her biggest challenge is \u201cbeing a single person who has to do everything,\u201d from making the cheese to marketing her small business. But Kasbo is fueled by passion, and by the enthusiastic reception she\u2019s received from buyers and eaters who send pictures of their kids relishing her jibneh, occasionally sprinkled with za\u2019atar. \u201cI have found such an amazing community in New Jersey,\u201d Kasbo says. \u201cI love that I can bring something international and make it locally.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

kasbosmarket.com<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A<\/a>
Fresh mozzarella cheese from Jersey Artisan Co. Photographed by Shilpa Iyer.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

JERSEY ARTISAN CO.<\/strong>
Born and raised in Morris County, Salvatore Pisani was inspired by his dad, Rocco Pisani. \u201cMy father is from the mountains of Calabria, Italy; he came to the US in 1986,\u201d Pisani says. \u201cMy mom is from Istanbul and moved here when she was five. My parents kept their food traditions alive as I was growing up.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pisani started out studying marine biology at Monmouth University, but he switched majors to marketing and management when he realized he wanted to work in food\u2014he missed his family ethos of \u201csourcing local, seasonal products, making our own sauce and salami.\u201d After working at a water buffalo farm in Sussex County, he knew he wanted to make cheese.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the summer of 2023, Pisani opened Jersey Artisan Co. to share these food traditions, which meld southern Italian heritage with New Jersey terroir. A Calabrian cheesemaker with three decades of experience flew to New Jersey to mentor Pisani. Twice a week, Pisani travels to Spring Run Dairy, a family-owned farm in Pittstown, to collect fresh cow\u2019s milk. \u201cIt\u2019s an amazing family farm with Jersey breed cows,\u201d Pisani explains. \u201cIt\u2019s high-butterfat, delicious milk.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Back at their brand-new wholesale facility in Whippany, this milk transforms into southern Italian classics: creamy mozzarella, burrata, scamorza, and ricotta. Jersey Artisan Co. also makes fresh pasta and naturally leavened bread, all for sale at their retail shop in East Hanover, and at farmers\u2019 markets around the state.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cEvery day is different\u2014it\u2019s a challenge and that\u2019s fun,\u201d Pisani says, who loves living, working, and making cheese in his home state. \u201cJersey is right in the name\u2014it\u2019s where we get our ingredients, and it\u2019s a part of everything we do.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

16 Littell Rd., #4B
East Hanover, NJ 07936
jerseyartisan.com<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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