{"id":48610,"date":"2024-12-01T23:09:29","date_gmt":"2024-12-02T04:09:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=48610"},"modified":"2024-12-04T18:47:44","modified_gmt":"2024-12-04T23:47:44","slug":"country-ham-american-meat-southern-charcuterie","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/country-ham-american-meat-southern-charcuterie\/","title":{"rendered":"Marrying Terroir, Taste, and Time for a Uniquely American Meat"},"content":{"rendered":"

Country ham is as American as apple pie.<\/h4>\n
\"A<\/a>

Lady Edison Country Ham.<\/p><\/div>\n

Tasting country ham is a quintessentially Southern experience. Maybe it\u2019s sizzling in a pan, awaiting a heaping spoonful of red-eye gravy. It could be stacked on a biscuit for breakfast or folded into a bowl of mac and cheese. Or perhaps it\u2019s a translucent slice served on a charcuterie platter, paired with a glass of bubbly wine. Regardless, it\u2019s packed with layers of brothy, salty-sweet flavor and depth, plus a welcome bit of funk.<\/p>\n

\u201cCountry ham is part of our American heritage,\u201d says Candace Cansler, executive director of the National Country Ham Association. \u201cIt\u2019s something that should be embedded in our culture.\u201d The American South has a rich story of country ham, a rare example of a true regional American ingredient with real terroir and history.<\/p>\n

\"Hocks<\/a>

Country hams at Goodnight Brothers.<\/p><\/div>\n

Pork with Pedigree<\/strong><\/p>\n

Until recently, when I thought of fancy cured pork, I thought of jam\u00f3n serrano and prosciutto di Parma. Then, last year, I tasted Lady Edison Extra-Fancy Country Ham. Sam Suchoff, owner and founder of Lady Edison, says plenty of European food professionals had a similar experience. \u201cAt food shows, an Italian or Spanish guy will see us and roll their eyes. They don\u2019t even want to try it,\u201d Suchoff tells me. \u201cThen, they put it in their mouth.\u201d That\u2019s when everything changes. \u201cThe flavors are nuanced, intense, and special,\u201d Suchoff describes. To me, the ham tasted of roasted hazelnuts and earth right after a rain\u2014with the luxurious richness of bacon fat.<\/p>\n

Suchoff, a Los Angeles native who now calls North Carolina home, opened his Chapel Hill barbecue restaurant, The Pig, in 2010. With a focus on animal welfare and sustainability, The Pig breaks down whole hogs. They turn the bellies into bacon and the shoulders into pulled pork. But what to do with the legs? Suchoff cold-called some of the southern ham greats, including Rufus Brown of Johnston County Hams (which went out of business in 2019) and Sam Edwards, who was the third-generation proprietor of his family ham business, Edwards Virginia Smokehouse, before selling his company in 2021.<\/p>\n

Suchoff was inspired by the Spanish world of jam\u00f3n, but quickly came to understand that the South had its own culinary story to tell. He began to fall in love. Suchoff and Brown struck up an agreement\u2014Brown would cure Suchoff\u2019s hams in his smokehouse. Suchoff notes, \u201cRufus said, \u2018I\u2019m not going to change anything about how I cure ham\u2014this is what I do, if you want it, this is how I do it.\u2019\u201d Pasture-raised Lady Edison hogs, a heritage cross of Berkshire, Chester White, and Duroc, got the traditional, beloved Johnston County Hams treatment.<\/p>\n

Country ham was born from necessity, not luxury. America\u2019s first pigs traveled to Florida with Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto in the sixteenth century. Many cuts could be enjoyed immediately after slaughter, but some, like the ham from the hind leg and rump of a pig, could be preserved to last in leaner times. Early Americans borrowed techniques from Europeans and Native Americans to keep meat safe to eat for months or even years. The deep, brawny flavor was a welcome bonus. \u201cThe longer hams cure, the saltier and more vibrant the flavor\u2014richer, stronger,\u201d says Cansler.<\/p>\n

\"Country<\/a>

Slicing and packaging country ham at the Goodnight Brothers\u2019 packing facility.<\/p><\/div>\n

America\u2019s Ham Belt<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201cIf you take a string and tie it around the world, there is a ham belt,\u201d explains Cansler. The temperate weather of the American South\u2014Kentucky, North Carolina, Tennessee, and Virginia\u2014makes it ideal for dry-curing hog legs, just like in Italy and Spain, which are also famous for their cured pork.<\/p>\n

Here\u2019s a little bit of ham terminology: dry curing, without the use of water, contrasts with wet curing, where hams are cured in brine; wet curing only came about in the modern refrigeration era. \u201cCity\u201d hams are wet brined, typically smoked, and not significantly aged.<\/p>\n

Tony Snow, vice president of sales and marketing at Goodnight Brothers, grew up on a North Carolina farm. \u201cI was surrounded by farmers who slaughtered pigs around Thanksgiving and cured hams and bellies, but I never knew that was something I could make a career out of,\u201d he says. \u201cWe\u2019d hang a pig up in the salt house, and Mother Nature would cure the ham for a full year.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Packages<\/a>

Packages of Goodnight Brothers\u2019 Dan\u2019L Boone Country Ham ready for shipping.<\/p><\/div>\n

A Ham Renaissance<\/strong><\/p>\n

Goodnight Brothers has been dry-curing ham since 1948. \u201cWhen I was growing up in North Carolina in the foothills, country ham was a staple when you sat down for breakfast. We\u2019d have eggs, biscuits, bacon, and country ham,\u201d Snow remembers.<\/p>\n

Cansler shares that when the National Country Ham Association gathered for their 30th meeting in Lexington County, South Carolina, earlier this year, \u201cWe only had eight producers, and we\u2019ve had as many as 30.\u201d For decades, the country ham industry has been hurting. \u201cBecause it must be aged for a minimum of 100 days before it\u2019s even considered ready, making ham is a financial burden\u2014it takes a big investment,\u201d Snow explains.<\/p>\n

As fat and salt were demonized in health trends, country ham was a casualty. But as cooks, chefs, and diners reconnect with their culinary roots, country ham can find a new place in the southern canon. \u201cAs times have changed, people have wanted to know more about where their food comes from,\u201d Snow says. \u201cCreative chefs find new ways to use it.\u201d<\/p>\n

In 2004, New York City chef Tom Colicchio tasted Benton\u2019s Smoky Mountain Country Hams from Madisonville, Tennessee, and brought it back to his restaurant. It was a sort of flavor epiphany. Suddenly, New Yorkers had a taste of country ham at Colicchio\u2019s restaurant Craft and, soon after, Momofuku, and they couldn\u2019t get enough. Country ham remains a staple in home kitchens and southern standbys such as Waffle House and Bojangles, but it also gets the royal treatment at restaurants such as & Sons Ham Bar in Brooklyn, Mateo in Durham, North Carolina, and Kato Restaurant in Los Angeles. Creative chefs and skilled makers are breathing new life into a favorite delicacy\u2014it\u2019s a new day for the old favorite that is country ham.<\/p>\n

\"Country<\/a>

Lady Edison\u2019s new packaging.<\/p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Country ham is as American as apple pie. Tasting country ham is a quintessentially Southern experience. Maybe it\u2019s sizzling in a pan, awaiting a heaping spoonful of red-eye gravy. It could be stacked on a biscuit for breakfast or folded into a bowl of mac and cheese. Or perhaps it\u2019s a translucent slice served on […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":122,"featured_media":48614,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"yes","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354],"tags":[],"coauthors":[34644],"class_list":["post-48610","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nMarrying Terroir, Taste, and Time for a Uniquely American Meat - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Country ham is as American as apple pie. Tasting country ham is a quintessentially Southern experience. Maybe it\u2019s sizzling in a pan, awaiting a heaping Tasting country ham is a quintessentially Southern experience. 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