{"id":49189,"date":"2025-04-21T16:06:43","date_gmt":"2025-04-21T20:06:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=49189"},"modified":"2025-04-21T16:06:47","modified_gmt":"2025-04-21T20:06:47","slug":"could-a-rare-french-blue-cheese-be-the-key-to-saving-microbial-biodiversity-in-cheese","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/could-a-rare-french-blue-cheese-be-the-key-to-saving-microbial-biodiversity-in-cheese\/","title":{"rendered":"Could a rare French blue cheese be the key to saving microbial biodiversity in cheese?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><strong>As technology evolves and the climate changes, could this French blue cheese provide invaluable insight into the world of genetic degradation?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_BleuDeTermignon_Portrait2_PC-Emily-Monaco-scaled.jpg\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_BleuDeTermignon_Portrait2_PC-Emily-Monaco-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-49190\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_BleuDeTermignon_Portrait2_PC-Emily-Monaco-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_BleuDeTermignon_Portrait2_PC-Emily-Monaco-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_BleuDeTermignon_Portrait2_PC-Emily-Monaco-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_BleuDeTermignon_Portrait2_PC-Emily-Monaco-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_BleuDeTermignon_Portrait2_PC-Emily-Monaco-scaled.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Photographed by Emily Monaco<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Bleu de Termignon\u2019s rugged blue-gray rind is marred with patches of rusty red and snowy white, inherently evoking the flower-filled pastures of the Alpine Parc National de la Vanoise, where it\u2019s made. Just five dairy farmers spend their summers in this remote national park\u2014France\u2019s first\u2014transforming the milk from their Tarentaise and Abondance cattle into one of the world\u2019s only natural blue cheeses. Unlike Gorgonzola, Stilton, or Roquefort, crumbly Bleu de Termignon is never inoculated with <em>Penicillium roqueforti<\/em>. Instead, it develops its subtle blue veins from spores naturally present in the centuries-old chalets perched high in the mountains, where neither car nor cell service can reach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Catherine Richard begins her 18-hour workday at 3 a.m., stoking the woodstove before salting and turning yesterday\u2019s cheeses. After milking her 17 cows, she combines the morning milk with that from the night before. She cuts and grinds the resulting curds by hand, a technique she says facilitates the air circulation that\u2019s essential for the blue veins to form. The cheeses drain for several days in ancestral wooden molds, followed by a transfer to the centuries-old cellar, where, her partner Jean-Jacques recounts, Charlemagne once visited with a cardinal. \u201cCharlemagne cut out all the blue because he was afraid of being poisoned,\u201d he says. \u201cThe cardinal told him, \u2018But my lord, you\u2019re removing the best part!\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In winter, Bleu de Termignon producers sell their milk to the Coop\u00e9rative Laiti\u00e8re du Beaufortain (Beaufort Dairy Cooperative), whose AOP certification requires the makers to produce the cows\u2019 winter feed. As a result, Richard and her partner split their time: she in the chalet, he commuting back and forth to the valley to grow their hay. Nevertheless, he says, \u201cI start later. Catherine gets up too early. She gets up at 3, I get up at 4:30 or 5 a.m.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201c5 a.m. on the dot!\u201d Richard crows with a laugh. \u201cWe\u2019ve got a calendar here\u2014no Saturday, no Sunday.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The same is true of Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Muller, who learned the trade from his grandmother and became a cheesemaker here in 2004. Muller must manage both cheese and hay on his own, making constant trips to the valley. His mid-morning cocoa is the only thing he\u2019ll have until 10 p.m., when he may heat some store-bought soup on the woodstove and eat a slice of his own cheese before crawling into bed. \u201cBetween spring and fall, I lose 5 or 6 kilos [10 or 13 pounds],\u201d he says. \u201cYou melt like snow in the sun.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_JosephPaccard_PC-Emily-Monaco-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" data-id=\"49191\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_JosephPaccard_PC-Emily-Monaco-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-49191\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_JosephPaccard_PC-Emily-Monaco-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_JosephPaccard_PC-Emily-Monaco-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_JosephPaccard_PC-Emily-Monaco-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_JosephPaccard_PC-Emily-Monaco-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_JosephPaccard_PC-Emily-Monaco-scaled.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Jean-Fran\u00e7ois Paccard, expert ager, in his cellar in Manigod.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_FredericMuller_make-process_PC-Emily-Monaco-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"49192\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_FredericMuller_make-process_PC-Emily-Monaco-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-49192\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_FredericMuller_make-process_PC-Emily-Monaco-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_FredericMuller_make-process_PC-Emily-Monaco-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_FredericMuller_make-process_PC-Emily-Monaco-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_FredericMuller_make-process_PC-Emily-Monaco-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_FredericMuller_make-process_PC-Emily-Monaco-scaled.jpg 1600w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_FredericMuller_make-process_PC-Emily-Monaco-500x375.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Catherine Richard makes her cheese by hand each day.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_BleuDeTermignon_Truck_PC-Emily-Monaco-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"49193\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_BleuDeTermignon_Truck_PC-Emily-Monaco-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-49193\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_BleuDeTermignon_Truck_PC-Emily-Monaco-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_BleuDeTermignon_Truck_PC-Emily-Monaco-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_BleuDeTermignon_Truck_PC-Emily-Monaco-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_BleuDeTermignon_Truck_PC-Emily-Monaco-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_BleuDeTermignon_Truck_PC-Emily-Monaco-scaled.jpg 1600w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_BleuDeTermignon_Truck_PC-Emily-Monaco-500x375.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"> Paccard\u2019s truck filled with Bleu de Termignon, ready to be aged.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-an-ancestral-all-natural-blue-cheese\">An Ancestral, All-Natural Blue Cheese<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>When it\u2019s young, Bleu de Termignon resembles snow, according to expert affineur Jean-Fran\u00e7ois Paccard; slice one open to reveal a paste that is reminiscent of Cantal: creamy, crumbly, and white. It\u2019s up to Paccard, who drives roughly 90 miles from his aging cellar in Manigod to fetch his allotment each September, to coax the blue veins into forming along the craggy curds\u2019 natural fault lines. He halves or quarters the wheels to encourage oxidation to work its magic, though he says the task is easier with some cheeses than others\u2014and occasionally, it never transpires at all. \u201cSometimes mine don\u2019t go blue,\u201d Muller says. \u201cThey\u2019re still good, you know? But they don\u2019t go blue.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This innate variability was once a hallmark of all blue cheese, according to Jeanne Ropars, a researcher at the Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (National Center for Scientific Research). But in the nineteenth century, she says, cheesemakers realized that inoculation would \u201cguarantee the blue.\u201d While this discovery paved the way for the now-familiar generosity of blue veins in cheeses aptly described in French as \u201cparsleyed,\u201d a reliance on lab-grown spores decimated the genetic diversity of the <em>P. roqueforti <\/em>that gives these cheeses their characteristic color and flavor. Today, just two populations of the fungus are used in cheesemaking around the world: one for Roquefort, the other for every other blue. The result is a troubling loss of terroir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cGorgonzola, for example, is as old as Roquefort,\u201d says Ropars, \u201cBut the problem with Gorgonzola is that they didn\u2019t maintain the local biodiversity. They were invaded by industrial producers, and it seems they kind of lost what they had.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The <em>P. roqueforti <\/em>in the Parc National de la Vanoise is different. It flourishes naturally in centuries-old chalets, contributing to \u201chuge genetic diversity,\u201d according to Ropars, who recently co-authored a study sequencing the fungi\u2019s genome. \u201cIt\u2019s in nature\u2014it can recombine.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The discovery bodes well for the world of blue cheese, \u201cin particular as it pertains to the flavors,\u201d Ropars says. After all, <em>P. roqueforti <\/em>isn\u2019t just a pretty face. It affects everything, from the inhibition of other fungi or contaminants to the conversion of sugars like maltose and lactose, all of which can impact the color and aroma of the resulting cheese. By crossing strains from different populations, she says, we can \u201ccreate\u201d new strains with new phenotypes that might be of interest to cheesemakers looking to resurface some of that lost diversity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cIn preserving the biodiversity,\u201d Ropars says, \u201cyou\u2019re ensuring, at the end of the day, a diversity in flavors\u2014and the survival of our cheeses.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_FredericMuller_PC-Emily-Monaco-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_FredericMuller_PC-Emily-Monaco-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-49194\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_FredericMuller_PC-Emily-Monaco-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_FredericMuller_PC-Emily-Monaco-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_FredericMuller_PC-Emily-Monaco-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_FredericMuller_PC-Emily-Monaco-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_FredericMuller_PC-Emily-Monaco-scaled.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Muller washes his tools with a view of the valley.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-an-endangered-bounty\">An Endangered Bounty<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>But in the Parc National de la Vanoise, the future isn\u2019t quite as bright as it seems in a lab. The effects of climate change are palpable, with a cold, rainy summer forcing Richard to become \u201cthe queen<br>of the chainsaw\u201d to keep the chalet warm enough for the cheeses to drain. Muller contends that last September, the vegetation looked more typical of October. As a result, he says, \u201cIn one week, we lost at least 50 liters [13 gallons] of milk.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Climate change isn\u2019t the only threat to their livelihoods. Bureaucratic transitions to digital invoices are difficult for cheesemakers who rely on satellite phones as their only connection to the outside world, and pushes to eradicate traditional wooden molds and aging boards in favor of plastic and stainless steel could diminish the presence of the coveted natural flora. Consumer expectations have changed, too, says Muller; some are skeptical of raw milk\u2019s safety, others are wary of the innate variability of the cheese. \u201cPeople ask for the fat content,\u201d Muller says. \u201cI told them to go to [the supermarket]. It\u2019s written on the packet there.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>But perhaps the biggest threat to the future of France\u2019s rarest cheese is the dwindling workforce. With seven producers just a few years ago, the official number has now fallen to five\u2014 and last year, the fifth cheesemaker, Bernard Richard, wasn\u2019t able to manage both hay growing and cheesemaking; as a result, he made no blue at all.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sixty-five-year-old Catherine Richard says the short nights and backbreaking work are beginning to take a toll. \u201cThere are days when I\u2019m at work and I say to myself, \u2018This isn\u2019t possible. I\u2019m going<br>to fall asleep on the tractor.\u2019\u201d She\u2019d welcome even one day off a week, but she says hired help is often unreliable or unsatisfactory. Richard has no children, but even if she did, there\u2019s no guarantee they\u2019d be willing to pick up the reins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Muller feels similarly. \u201cWho would want to do a job where you need to get up every day, 365 days a year? Where there\u2019s no vacation,\u201d he muses. \u201cWho\u2019d want to get themselves into a thing like that?\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For now, they continue. But if something doesn\u2019t change, this newfound biodiversity may be lost forever. \u201cI\u2019ve spent every summer of my life here,\u201d says Catherine. \u201cBut I\u2019m not sure how much longer I\u2019ll last.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>As technology evolves and the climate changes, could this French blue cheese provide invaluable insight into the world of genetic degradation? Photographed by Emily Monaco Bleu de Termignon\u2019s rugged blue-gray rind is marred with patches of rusty red and snowy white, inherently evoking the flower-filled pastures of the Alpine Parc National de la Vanoise, where [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":114,"featured_media":49190,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":true,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"yes","footnotes":""},"categories":[26353],"tags":[],"coauthors":[2066],"class_list":["post-49189","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v24.4 (Yoast SEO v24.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Could a rare French blue cheese be the key to saving microbial biodiversity in cheese? - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/could-a-rare-french-blue-cheese-be-the-key-to-saving-microbial-biodiversity-in-cheese\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Could a rare French blue cheese be the key to saving microbial biodiversity in cheese?\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"As technology evolves and the climate changes, could this French blue cheese provide invaluable insight into the world of genetic degradation? Photographed by Emily Monaco Bleu de Termignon\u2019s rugged blue-gray rind is marred with patches of rusty red and snowy white, inherently evoking the flower-filled pastures of the Alpine Parc National de la Vanoise, where [&hellip;]\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/could-a-rare-french-blue-cheese-be-the-key-to-saving-microbial-biodiversity-in-cheese\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2025-04-21T20:06:43+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2025-04-21T20:06:47+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Spring2025_Feature_Blues_BleuDeTermignon_Portrait2_PC-Emily-Monaco-scaled.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1600\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1067\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Emily Monaco\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Emily Monaco\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"7 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/could-a-rare-french-blue-cheese-be-the-key-to-saving-microbial-biodiversity-in-cheese\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/could-a-rare-french-blue-cheese-be-the-key-to-saving-microbial-biodiversity-in-cheese\/\",\"name\":\"Could a rare French blue cheese be the key to saving microbial biodiversity in cheese? 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